I believe some run on mineral oil and mineral oil does not conduct electricity, so yes. Also there are a few types of liquid cooling. One is an enclosed system that you never have to worry about, the other is an open system in which you have to change the liquid inside fairly often.
I have a sealed system, I've moved my PC 100 times to other locations and have never had an issue. I love it.
Just a small warning. A friend ordered a PC with liquid cooling and paid extra for safer shipping options ( internal padding etc.). They cooling system must have been damaged or something in shipping because his PC was running at 90 C when he first used it. He sent it back and the company made good on it and he asked for fans this time. He got it back after a while and now has no issues. I think that if you are doing it yourself or having it done locally then it is probably fine but I think there is a greater risk of problems when these types of systems are shipped.
Just a small warning. A friend ordered a PC with liquid cooling and paid extra for safer shipping options ( internal padding etc.). They cooling system must have been damaged or something in shipping because his PC was running at 90 C when he first used it. He sent it back and the company made good on it and he asked for fans this time. He got it back after a while and now has no issues. I think that if you are doing it yourself or having it done locally then it is probably fine but I think there is a greater risk of problems when these types of systems are shipped.
yea i bought all the parts from amazon and when they arrive i will build the pc , but if i have water cooling and it split my whole system is doomed
is it possible to buy a liquid cooling system which the liquid does not damage the pc parts in case it splits ?
Umm..Use mineral oil? lol
''/\/\'' Posted using Iphone bunni ( o.o) (")(") **This bunny was cloned from bunnies belonging to Gobla and is part of the Quizzical Fanclub and the The Marvelously Meowhead Fan Club**
I believe some run on mineral oil and mineral oil does not conduct electricity, so yes. Also there are a few types of liquid cooling. One is an enclosed system that you never have to worry about, the other is an open system in which you have to change the liquid inside fairly often.
I have a sealed system, I've moved my PC 100 times to other locations and have never had an issue. I love it.
are there any systems where i can buy that use mineral oil , or i have to build it myself?
You can buy some liquids which are claimed to be non conductive, but over time as impurities come into the system there will likely be some conductivity anyway.
You could go with a Corsair H70, but then you would be better off with regular air cooling.
You can buy some liquids which are claimed to be non conductive, but over time as impurities come into the system there will likely be some conductivity anyway.
You could go with a Corsair H70, but then you would be better off with regular air cooling.
At the moment i have Corsair A50 , i will stay with it i think
You can buy some liquids which are claimed to be non conductive, but over time as impurities come into the system there will likely be some conductivity anyway.
You could go with a Corsair H70, but then you would be better off with regular air cooling.
H70 is just a enclosed loop but tiny, any enclosed loop water cooling system achieves the same thing.
The big thing these days for people who want to get their feet wet are the XSPC watercooling kits. Go for a 240 Radiator if you want to only cool your cpu and a 360 if you want to cool both cpu and gpu.
If you're mainly interested in quiet, then you'll want something with a very large radiator. A fan blowing across a too-small radiator can make for a very loud liquid cooling setup, too.
Actually, if you're mainly interested in quiet, you may be able to undervolt your processor and turn the processor fan down some, and do that for free. What processor do you have, anyway?
If you're mainly interested in quiet, then you'll want something with a very large radiator. A fan blowing across a too-small radiator can make for a very loud liquid cooling setup, too.
Actually, if you're mainly interested in quiet, you may be able to undervolt your processor and turn the processor fan down some, and do that for free. What processor do you have, anyway?
Or he could get one of the nice custom heatsinks, that works rather nice as well.
But yes, a small radiotor isn't good, the realle small ones are almost as high as the standard fans. But even meium sized radiotors are a big step away from a processor fan.
Its cheap better cooling thair normal air cooling and no worries about fillnig it up yourself..
The is probally by far the best option to go for.
I have one of these myself, it is actually better than I thought it would be. With my SSDs the highest sound on my computer is my GFX fan now and it is hard to hear it unless I play a game that uses a lot of resources, my bed is 2 meters from the computer and the computer is always on so I don't want a loud system.
Save yourself time money and buy a descent tower and place your computer in a good spot for proper air flow. You will have 0 issues with heating on your computer. Also, if you don't like the amount of sound your computer is generating wear ear plugs. All computers and game consoles make some level of noise. Same with a car or machinery.
When did you start playing "old school" MMO's. World Of Warcraft?
Save yourself time money and buy a descent tower and place your computer in a good spot for proper air flow. You will have 0 issues with heating on your computer. Also, if you don't like the amount of sound your computer is generating wear ear plugs. All computers and game consoles make some level of noise. Same with a car or machinery.
First, keeping the ambient temperature in the case down and keeping down the gap between the ambient temperature in the case and CPU or GPU are separate issues. It's entirely possible for either one to be a problem without the other.
Second, some noises are a lot more annoying than others. My case fans are noisier than my processor fan, but the processor fan is more annoying, because it makes a slight plastic scraping noise, rather than just air blowing.
Third, you can get a computer that really is silent, except for when the optical drive is in use. Something like this:
My Alienware Area 51 desktop has an internal, closed liquid cooling system that supposedly never needs any liquids added. I have run tests on all 8 cores of the processor with CPUID HWMonitor maxing the processing load per core and the temp never went up a single degree. It's completely quiet, and a million times better than the best fan you could get for a cpu.
If you're interested in liquid for high-level overclocking, the aforementioned Corsair H50 isn't too expensive ($60-$70), and does very easily outperform even high end air coolers, at least by a respectable margin. The H70 presumably has considerably more thermal dissipation power.
My Alienware Area 51 desktop has an internal, closed liquid cooling system that supposedly never needs any liquids added. I have run tests on all 8 cores of the processor with CPUID HWMonitor maxing the processing load per core and the temp never went up a single degree. It's completely quiet, and a million times better than the best fan you could get for a cpu.
You don't have an eight core processor unless you're running a Beckton Xeon or Magny-Cours Opteron server. If you're not seeing the temperatures change between idle and load, then the sensors are defective.
If you're interested in liquid for high-level overclocking, the aforementioned Corsair H50 isn't too expensive ($60-$70), and does very easily outperform even high end air coolers, at least by a respectable margin. The H70 presumably has considerably more thermal dissipation power.
There is no way to guarantee that a liquid cooling system will not damage your components. In the same manner that you can't guarantee that an air cooler won't damage your components.
Yes, the damage is more extensive on a liquid leak than if a fan just stops working, but everything is a risk.
Mineral Oil - no, do not run mineral oil through a liquid system unless it specifically is built for it. Mineral oil is much more viscous (thick) than water, and many pumps and components are not designed for the additional stress of pumping them, in addition to the fact that it could chemically react with some types of tygon tubing.
There are low conductivity coolants that can be found, they are not much more expensive than regular coolant. You won't be able to run it in pretty colors, and a leak still may damage your system (the liquid itself may be low conductivity, but you mix it with dust and it won't be anymore, and I've never seen a dust-free computer). You can also run straight demineralized (or distilled) water, which is not a bad option, but without any corrosion or biological inhibitors in it you will need to change it out frequently to keep stuff from growing inside your cooling loop. NEVER run plain tap water in a cooling system, no matter how clean you think it is. Always always always get bottled distilled or demineralized water if you aren't using a pre-mixed coolant.
Additionally, the more coolers and tubing you have, the bigger the chance for a leak. Running stiffer nylon tubing as opposed to cheaper plastic tygon tubing can pretty well eliminate the chance that a cooling line would get cut and leak, but it is harder to work with and is not clear/see through. Alternatively, you could also run stainless swage-lok (or yor-lok) fittings and stainless tubing in your computer - properly installed those will never fail, but they are very expensive, and the tubing is difficult to work with and not flexible.
Most leaks are going to occur from fittings - either tygon tubing getting warm and slipping out of the fitting, or improperly threaded fittings, or just using the wrong fittings. Some leaks occur when a waterjacket on a water block fails - I've had two separate waterblocks from a BFG watercooled video card flat out break and fail. The video card was replaced under lifetime warranty (before they went bankrupt), but I was out a motherboard each time. I still have the card in a desk drawer, I didn't reinstall it a third time...
The small self-contained loops (like on the Corsair H line) are about as safe as it gets. These will not cool your CPU any more than a good air-cooled heat sink, but they all have the advantage of dumping all of the CPU heat outside of the case, rather than blowing it around inside the case and then requiring case ventilation to remove it. So you get cooler temperatures overall, not just on your CPU, which is something to consider.
The step up from that would be a preconfigured system, like the Koolance Exos. These will have all the basic parts you need to run a cooling loop: Pump, expansion/vent tank, radiator, fans, some tygon and fittings, and probably a CPU water block (although you need to check with the system, not all come with a CPU block).
Hard core would be just putting everything together your self. All the parts and pieces are available ala cart if you wish, and you can really develop some nice custom systems this way, including accommodating some nice case mods with internal radiators and water tanks, or driving heavy duty cooling (like a single water loop for several servers in a rack). If you are really adventurous, you can build a water cooling rig (including water blocks) from just parts obtained at the local hardware store. I have done this before, I do not recommend it because the risk of breaking something is extremely high, but it does work, and is not very expensive.
If you are really wanting silent, check out the Zalman Reserators: they are not "High performance", but they are adequate enough for a 150W of TDP, and are completely and totally silent - no fan, and the pump is installed inside of the water column and produces no noise. It is a preconfigured system, but it doesn't have the capacity to cool anything other than just your CPU. I have one of the originals, and still use the cooling tower in my cooling loop now so my system can idle silently (although i have a radiator in the loop and the fans auto-pickup when the temperature starts to creep up).
If you're interested in liquid for high-level overclocking, the aforementioned Corsair H50 isn't too expensive ($60-$70), and does very easily outperform even high end air coolers, at least by a respectable margin. The H70 presumably has considerably more thermal dissipation power.
No, the H50 does not outperform high end air coolers. It's just below the best air coolers.
Okay, okay, the $60 H50 is JUST barely worse than the Noctua NH-D14, an $80+ cooler (more often $90+) with dual fans, that's practically the size of a watermelon, and probably sounds like a kirby vacuum in your case. It's not really fair to compare a single-fan cooler with a dual-fan cooler, since you could honestly just buy a second fan and do a push-pull on the H50.
Is it outperformed by much of anything else in the air department? Not really (though it's worth nothing that their AM2 testing on the next page showed that this H50 doesn't work with every case sitation).
I'd say that's pretty good results for a water cooler that's honestly cheaper than most high-end air coolers, though, being the good deal that it always is, I do also note that the $50 Titan Fenrir ran almost neck-and-neck, and pretty much lead the pack for air coolers tested. The Fenrir is an amazing cooler, though for some reason, even it can't keep my Phenom II X4 965 cool enough for overclocking (probably a bad mounting, or a rough surface on either the chip or the heat sink).
The performance from a liquid cooling system depends tremendously on how it is set up, and on how it is tested. Some low cost liquid cooling systems put the radiator at an external vent of the case, with the case fan blowing air into the case across the radiator. This works very wel for keeping the CPU cool, as it means that the temperature of the air when it reaches the radiator is the ambient temperature outside of the case.
The problem with this is that it releases the heat that the CPU produces right as air is coming into the case. That air then has to go across everything else before getting back out of the case. While this makes CPU temperatures look good, it's bad for everything else in your case.
The system can likely also be set up at a vent such that the radiator fan takes air from the interior of the case, blows it across the radiator, and then right out of the case. This means that the air meeting the radiator is the ambient temperature inside the case, not outside the case. If the ambient temperature inside the case is 5 C warmer than outside of the case, then this makes the liquid cooling setup look 5 C worse.
But I'd argue that it's still a better way to set it up, as it keeps everything else in the case much cooler. You've got a dedicated cooling system for your processor, and it should be able to do its job just fine. Your memory, hard drive, southbridge, and various other bits on the motherboard don't get anything but general case airflow and maybe a small heatsink. With a typical case setup, they're fine, but if you're blowing hot air from the processor right at them, they might not be.
Most of the good air coolers have a fan blowing horizontally, parallel to the motherboard. Here, the air is released in the interior of the case, rather than right at a boundary. This is somewhere between the two liquid cooling radiator options in effectiveness, but probably closer to the second option for most purposes. In a typical setup, the hot air coming off of the processor doesn't go very far before hitting a rear case fan and going right out of the case. Maybe it goes across some capacitors and other power circuitry, but motherboard manufacturers know that's coming and can give them better heatsinks if needed. For purposes of the memory, video card, and hard drive, a good air cooling setup is nearly equivalent to a liquid cooling CPU setup with the air going across the radiator leaving the case as it does.
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There's also the issue of fan noise, and this means that many coolers can be more effective at cooling at the expense of more noise, or quieter at the expense of less effective cooling. That's why it's absolutely imperative to have sound measurements in addition to the termperature difference.
-----
Another big difference is how the testing is done, or more precisely, how long you run a stress test before taking temperature measurements. Water has an extremely high volumetric heat capacity, which is one of the things that makes it an attractive coolant. If you're not releasing any heat thorugh the radiator at all, it will still take quite a while to heat up the water. I'm not sure how much water the entire liquid cooling setup in a Corsair H50 has, but it could easily be quite a bit.
If it has a cup of water and you run a processor at 100 W for two minutes, then by the end of that, even if the water had simply absorbed all of that heat, the average temperature of the water would only be 12 C warmer than when you started. Two minutes isn't quite enough to get an air cooler to equilibrium, but it's pretty close. For a liquid cooling setup, you may well need to run the stress test for 10 minutes to get something approaching equilibrium. Or maybe that wouldn't be long enough and you'd need half an hour.
Now, you might think, shouldn't taking a long time to warm up be a good thing? And it can be, if the processor is mostly idle, but working very hard in short bursts. But if you're playing a game for an hour at a time, the temperature that matters is the temperature at the end of that time. Furthermore, if a site doesn't run a stress test long enough before taking the temperature measurement, it can easily greatly overestimate the effectiveness of liquid cooling.
Comments
there are a number of all in one liquid cooling systems.. corsair do some, they arn't as good but tehy tend to be better than air
I believe some run on mineral oil and mineral oil does not conduct electricity, so yes. Also there are a few types of liquid cooling. One is an enclosed system that you never have to worry about, the other is an open system in which you have to change the liquid inside fairly often.
I have a sealed system, I've moved my PC 100 times to other locations and have never had an issue. I love it.
Just a small warning. A friend ordered a PC with liquid cooling and paid extra for safer shipping options ( internal padding etc.). They cooling system must have been damaged or something in shipping because his PC was running at 90 C when he first used it. He sent it back and the company made good on it and he asked for fans this time. He got it back after a while and now has no issues. I think that if you are doing it yourself or having it done locally then it is probably fine but I think there is a greater risk of problems when these types of systems are shipped.
yea i bought all the parts from amazon and when they arrive i will build the pc , but if i have water cooling and it split my whole system is doomed
Umm..Use mineral oil? lol
''/\/\'' Posted using Iphone bunni
( o.o)
(")(")
**This bunny was cloned from bunnies belonging to Gobla and is part of the Quizzical Fanclub and the The Marvelously Meowhead Fan Club**
are there any systems where i can buy that use mineral oil , or i have to build it myself?
You can buy some liquids which are claimed to be non conductive, but over time as impurities come into the system there will likely be some conductivity anyway.
You could go with a Corsair H70, but then you would be better off with regular air cooling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43Yg9D0Nt8U
At the moment i have Corsair A50 , i will stay with it i think
H70 is just a enclosed loop but tiny, any enclosed loop water cooling system achieves the same thing.
I am interested in water cooling, however my budget is low atm. What would you guys recommend?
I'm interested in water cooling only for a silent system not overclocking.
The Corsair H50-1
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-002-CS
Its cheap better cooling thair normal air cooling and no worries about fillnig it up yourself..
The is probally by far the best option to go for.
The big thing these days for people who want to get their feet wet are the XSPC watercooling kits. Go for a 240 Radiator if you want to only cool your cpu and a 360 if you want to cool both cpu and gpu.
Get a fan controller for a quiet system.
Thanks, I recently purchased the Fenrir fan however the grill makes an anoying vibrating noise
. lol I'll get this one next week I think .
If you're mainly interested in quiet, then you'll want something with a very large radiator. A fan blowing across a too-small radiator can make for a very loud liquid cooling setup, too.
Actually, if you're mainly interested in quiet, you may be able to undervolt your processor and turn the processor fan down some, and do that for free. What processor do you have, anyway?
Or he could get one of the nice custom heatsinks, that works rather nice as well.
But yes, a small radiotor isn't good, the realle small ones are almost as high as the standard fans. But even meium sized radiotors are a big step away from a processor fan.
I have one of these myself, it is actually better than I thought it would be. With my SSDs the highest sound on my computer is my GFX fan now and it is hard to hear it unless I play a game that uses a lot of resources, my bed is 2 meters from the computer and the computer is always on so I don't want a loud system.
Save yourself time money and buy a descent tower and place your computer in a good spot for proper air flow. You will have 0 issues with heating on your computer. Also, if you don't like the amount of sound your computer is generating wear ear plugs. All computers and game consoles make some level of noise. Same with a car or machinery.
When did you start playing "old school" MMO's. World Of Warcraft?
First, keeping the ambient temperature in the case down and keeping down the gap between the ambient temperature in the case and CPU or GPU are separate issues. It's entirely possible for either one to be a problem without the other.
Second, some noises are a lot more annoying than others. My case fans are noisier than my processor fan, but the processor fan is more annoying, because it makes a slight plastic scraping noise, rather than just air blowing.
Third, you can get a computer that really is silent, except for when the optical drive is in use. Something like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131698
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151097
and then don't plug in any case fans, and get an SSD and no hard drive. That will leave you with no moving parts, and hence no noise.
My Alienware Area 51 desktop has an internal, closed liquid cooling system that supposedly never needs any liquids added. I have run tests on all 8 cores of the processor with CPUID HWMonitor maxing the processing load per core and the temp never went up a single degree. It's completely quiet, and a million times better than the best fan you could get for a cpu.
If you're interested in liquid for high-level overclocking, the aforementioned Corsair H50 isn't too expensive ($60-$70), and does very easily outperform even high end air coolers, at least by a respectable margin. The H70 presumably has considerably more thermal dissipation power.
I can't seem to find a lot of review for the Rasa 750 RS240, but these guys seemed to like it here: http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=1159&page=1
You don't have an eight core processor unless you're running a Beckton Xeon or Magny-Cours Opteron server. If you're not seeing the temperatures change between idle and load, then the sensors are defective.
No, the H50 does not outperform high end air coolers. It's just below the best air coolers.
There is no way to guarantee that a liquid cooling system will not damage your components. In the same manner that you can't guarantee that an air cooler won't damage your components.
Yes, the damage is more extensive on a liquid leak than if a fan just stops working, but everything is a risk.
Mineral Oil - no, do not run mineral oil through a liquid system unless it specifically is built for it. Mineral oil is much more viscous (thick) than water, and many pumps and components are not designed for the additional stress of pumping them, in addition to the fact that it could chemically react with some types of tygon tubing.
There are low conductivity coolants that can be found, they are not much more expensive than regular coolant. You won't be able to run it in pretty colors, and a leak still may damage your system (the liquid itself may be low conductivity, but you mix it with dust and it won't be anymore, and I've never seen a dust-free computer). You can also run straight demineralized (or distilled) water, which is not a bad option, but without any corrosion or biological inhibitors in it you will need to change it out frequently to keep stuff from growing inside your cooling loop. NEVER run plain tap water in a cooling system, no matter how clean you think it is. Always always always get bottled distilled or demineralized water if you aren't using a pre-mixed coolant.
Additionally, the more coolers and tubing you have, the bigger the chance for a leak. Running stiffer nylon tubing as opposed to cheaper plastic tygon tubing can pretty well eliminate the chance that a cooling line would get cut and leak, but it is harder to work with and is not clear/see through. Alternatively, you could also run stainless swage-lok (or yor-lok) fittings and stainless tubing in your computer - properly installed those will never fail, but they are very expensive, and the tubing is difficult to work with and not flexible.
Most leaks are going to occur from fittings - either tygon tubing getting warm and slipping out of the fitting, or improperly threaded fittings, or just using the wrong fittings. Some leaks occur when a waterjacket on a water block fails - I've had two separate waterblocks from a BFG watercooled video card flat out break and fail. The video card was replaced under lifetime warranty (before they went bankrupt), but I was out a motherboard each time. I still have the card in a desk drawer, I didn't reinstall it a third time...
The small self-contained loops (like on the Corsair H line) are about as safe as it gets. These will not cool your CPU any more than a good air-cooled heat sink, but they all have the advantage of dumping all of the CPU heat outside of the case, rather than blowing it around inside the case and then requiring case ventilation to remove it. So you get cooler temperatures overall, not just on your CPU, which is something to consider.
The step up from that would be a preconfigured system, like the Koolance Exos. These will have all the basic parts you need to run a cooling loop: Pump, expansion/vent tank, radiator, fans, some tygon and fittings, and probably a CPU water block (although you need to check with the system, not all come with a CPU block).
Hard core would be just putting everything together your self. All the parts and pieces are available ala cart if you wish, and you can really develop some nice custom systems this way, including accommodating some nice case mods with internal radiators and water tanks, or driving heavy duty cooling (like a single water loop for several servers in a rack). If you are really adventurous, you can build a water cooling rig (including water blocks) from just parts obtained at the local hardware store. I have done this before, I do not recommend it because the risk of breaking something is extremely high, but it does work, and is not very expensive.
If you are really wanting silent, check out the Zalman Reserators: they are not "High performance", but they are adequate enough for a 150W of TDP, and are completely and totally silent - no fan, and the pump is installed inside of the water column and produces no noise. It is a preconfigured system, but it doesn't have the capacity to cool anything other than just your CPU. I have one of the originals, and still use the cooling tower in my cooling loop now so my system can idle silently (although i have a radiator in the loop and the fans auto-pickup when the temperature starts to creep up).
Okay, okay, the $60 H50 is JUST barely worse than the Noctua NH-D14, an $80+ cooler (more often $90+) with dual fans, that's practically the size of a watermelon, and probably sounds like a kirby vacuum in your case. It's not really fair to compare a single-fan cooler with a dual-fan cooler, since you could honestly just buy a second fan and do a push-pull on the H50.
Is it outperformed by much of anything else in the air department? Not really (though it's worth nothing that their AM2 testing on the next page showed that this H50 doesn't work with every case sitation).
I'd say that's pretty good results for a water cooler that's honestly cheaper than most high-end air coolers, though, being the good deal that it always is, I do also note that the $50 Titan Fenrir ran almost neck-and-neck, and pretty much lead the pack for air coolers tested. The Fenrir is an amazing cooler, though for some reason, even it can't keep my Phenom II X4 965 cool enough for overclocking (probably a bad mounting, or a rough surface on either the chip or the heat sink).
The performance from a liquid cooling system depends tremendously on how it is set up, and on how it is tested. Some low cost liquid cooling systems put the radiator at an external vent of the case, with the case fan blowing air into the case across the radiator. This works very wel for keeping the CPU cool, as it means that the temperature of the air when it reaches the radiator is the ambient temperature outside of the case.
The problem with this is that it releases the heat that the CPU produces right as air is coming into the case. That air then has to go across everything else before getting back out of the case. While this makes CPU temperatures look good, it's bad for everything else in your case.
The system can likely also be set up at a vent such that the radiator fan takes air from the interior of the case, blows it across the radiator, and then right out of the case. This means that the air meeting the radiator is the ambient temperature inside the case, not outside the case. If the ambient temperature inside the case is 5 C warmer than outside of the case, then this makes the liquid cooling setup look 5 C worse.
But I'd argue that it's still a better way to set it up, as it keeps everything else in the case much cooler. You've got a dedicated cooling system for your processor, and it should be able to do its job just fine. Your memory, hard drive, southbridge, and various other bits on the motherboard don't get anything but general case airflow and maybe a small heatsink. With a typical case setup, they're fine, but if you're blowing hot air from the processor right at them, they might not be.
Most of the good air coolers have a fan blowing horizontally, parallel to the motherboard. Here, the air is released in the interior of the case, rather than right at a boundary. This is somewhere between the two liquid cooling radiator options in effectiveness, but probably closer to the second option for most purposes. In a typical setup, the hot air coming off of the processor doesn't go very far before hitting a rear case fan and going right out of the case. Maybe it goes across some capacitors and other power circuitry, but motherboard manufacturers know that's coming and can give them better heatsinks if needed. For purposes of the memory, video card, and hard drive, a good air cooling setup is nearly equivalent to a liquid cooling CPU setup with the air going across the radiator leaving the case as it does.
-----
There's also the issue of fan noise, and this means that many coolers can be more effective at cooling at the expense of more noise, or quieter at the expense of less effective cooling. That's why it's absolutely imperative to have sound measurements in addition to the termperature difference.
-----
Another big difference is how the testing is done, or more precisely, how long you run a stress test before taking temperature measurements. Water has an extremely high volumetric heat capacity, which is one of the things that makes it an attractive coolant. If you're not releasing any heat thorugh the radiator at all, it will still take quite a while to heat up the water. I'm not sure how much water the entire liquid cooling setup in a Corsair H50 has, but it could easily be quite a bit.
If it has a cup of water and you run a processor at 100 W for two minutes, then by the end of that, even if the water had simply absorbed all of that heat, the average temperature of the water would only be 12 C warmer than when you started. Two minutes isn't quite enough to get an air cooler to equilibrium, but it's pretty close. For a liquid cooling setup, you may well need to run the stress test for 10 minutes to get something approaching equilibrium. Or maybe that wouldn't be long enough and you'd need half an hour.
Now, you might think, shouldn't taking a long time to warm up be a good thing? And it can be, if the processor is mostly idle, but working very hard in short bursts. But if you're playing a game for an hour at a time, the temperature that matters is the temperature at the end of that time. Furthermore, if a site doesn't run a stress test long enough before taking the temperature measurement, it can easily greatly overestimate the effectiveness of liquid cooling.