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WoW Headset issues.
Deathofsage
Member UncommonPosts: 1,102
05/21/11: Fixed the problem I describe below by updating the driver for the USB controller.
(Also, I use the MSI P67A-GD64 B3).
Original Title: Windows 7 - Automate device status? (WoW Headset)
I have the World of Warcraft Headset -- a grand waste of money. But I have it so I try to keep it useable. For those thinking on acquiring one, I'll discuss the pros and cons at the end of the post.
It does not charge as quickly as the battery in it is consumed, thus I can use it while being plugged in and if there was no battery charge.. it dies frequently.
I have various features of it disabled hoping that it would produce sound for less energy. Is there a way in Windows 7 that I can make it so when my computer goes to standby it sets the speakers to the default device and disables the headset? the headset charges while disabled and this is the most effective method I've found but I can't automate it so often forget.
The charger, by the way, is just a usb cable, it's the standard faire with a mini-connector at the other end.
- - -
The quality of the headset's innards are beautiful. They sound great, wirelless transmission is free. They're a bit heavy on the head and bulky so lying down with them on is awkward. They are great at noise canceling. The microphone is fantastic, but picks up every nearby sound til you fiddle with the custom software (very friendly software). There are some voice filters that are tons of fun. I spend a few nights on farm-raiding speaking completely serious leading my raid with my voice sounding like a little girl. Tons of laughs out of that.
The cosmetic materials are substandard being very flimsy. You can't see how fragile the frame is because of how bulky the outer casing is but they, as my friend found out, can break from dropping. Possibly the weight of their bulk is their doom.
Spec'ing properly is a gateway drug.
12 Million People have been meter spammed in heroics.
Comments
To be honest im suprised your having these issues. Mine turn off after 3 mins of no sound. As far as laying them down the earpeices turn to allow a flat lay. Also as far as them breaking when your friend dropped them... well dont drop them.
Try and make sure you have the newest drivers installed.
http://support.creative.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?catID=437&CatName=Headphones+%26+Headsets&subCatID=231&subCatName=MIDI+Keyboards&prodID=19068&prodName=Sound+Blaster+World+of+Warcraft+Wireless+Headset&bTopTwenty=1&VARSET=prodfaq:PRODFAQ_19068,VARSET=CategoryID:437
I play 3-4 hours a night and if i forget to charge them its no problem as it still holds enough charge for 1 more play session then turns off.
Let me give you just a little advice.
Dont ever waste you money on brand to product tie-ins. For no other reason that you are paying 20%-60% extra for that IP/branded name.
Its not necessarily that youre getting a crap product, its that for the money you spent you should have gotten a better quality product.
"I understand that if I hear any more words come pouring out of your **** mouth, Ill have to eat every fucking chicken in this room."
No that im a fanboi of wow, but i enjoy all creative products. Care to give examples of wireless headphones that are $100 with this quality.
Like I said; its not that buying a tie-in means bad quality, it just youre paying extra for a name.
How about this one - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826158069
Edit below* sorry linked to the wired version, now linked to the wireless.
Or better yet how about this one - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826785001 about $40 cheaper at the same quality as the WoW ones, just without the pretty logo's
"I understand that if I hear any more words come pouring out of your **** mouth, Ill have to eat every fucking chicken in this room."
So it drains the battery if you use it even while it's plugged in? That sounds defective.
As far as automated device status... that I'm not certain about. I know you can do a lot with scripting, but to that extent I'm not sure.
I didn't buy them, they were a gift, but I know exactly what you're saying.
In my experience, the Steelseries mouse is the same... and I'd describe it the same way. I raided thousands of hours with it and loved all but the first minutes... the first several dozen clicks had the left click grinding against the palm rest. There was no wiggle room. That's just how it performed (thankfully without lagging click release or the ability to click again) in the beginning.
Thanks for the input so far and I've accepted they probably are defective. I've had them for some time but I'm trying to make an otherwise enjoyable experience last. Plus I hate disposing of gifts. Meh.
Spec'ing properly is a gateway drug.
12 Million People have been meter spammed in heroics.
Neither one are as good. look at specs. Not to mention they lack the software that allows great control over your headset.
1st one, I paid $99 for my wow wirless headset. Why would i pay for these at roughly same price. The ear peices dont fit over the ears 100% and the mic isnt detachable. The wireless doggle is large and has more wires.
2nd one. Same issues as the first. Its not over the ears. Mic isnt detachable.
The speacker size or driver size of the WoW headset is also larger than both.
hmm i use a 15 $ headset with a 10 foot wire works like a charm never have troubles lol
i have win7 n no i dont think there is a way to make it switch to defualt sound device when it goes to standy. i gotta say im disliking how they changed some audio options with win7, i think these changes may have occured with vista too but i never used vista so im not sure.
ive even tried some "software" which makes it easier supposedly to switch amonsgt the various sound devices and found them lacking
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Not really here to argue with you. But you must have dumbo ears if youre saying they wont fit over yours, which is odd anyways since the set you have has the same sized muffs as both my examples...*shurg*
If you feel its worth $40 extra to have a detachable mic boom, who am I to argue. And as to the software, I have the same fine tuning with my Creative control panel.
And I'm not sure where youre seeing that the speakers are larger. My 1st link doesnt show that in its details, but I think the 40mm neo-magnets are standard for all low-mid line Creative headsets, and the second link lists exactly the same size and type as the WoW one.
"I understand that if I hear any more words come pouring out of your **** mouth, Ill have to eat every fucking chicken in this room."
Why buy the following:
Advanced Headsets
Decent Speaker Systems
Expensive Sound Cards
When most games have tracks rated at 96 - 128kbps. Seldom do you find games that have high quality tracks. With most people listening to music on their MP3 players, music through youtube and veoh, why does one need to spend money on so much crap? Specially when Onboard sound allows a person to actually bypass sound itself into an External DAC which allows you to use a real speaker system and have higher sound quality than a $1000 sound card.
Yes. Not those idiotic cards that come with a lot of effects and equalization to trick the ear into thinking you have a good product. Eliminate all Equalization and Crystalization effects and you truly will find that the DSP along with your DAC is really not that good. A $100 DAC connected to any decent Sub/AMP combo (those start at $50+) has higher sound quality in processing game music. Also, since the Signal to Noise Ratio is better since you don't have a DAC surrounded by a lot of electronics, the sound comes out to be a lot clearer too.
This is the same method people use when they decide to go out and buy speakers for their cars....then buy a sub with a DAC and its bypass to an AMP to make their car sound a lot better.
I just thought of something else:
Make sure you have the USB cord plugged into a powered hub outlet. All the ports on your computer should be powered, but external USB hubs (like those on your monitor or keyboard) may not be. A powered USB hub can provide a lot more power than a passive one can, and that may be why your headset is using power faster than it can charge.
To all the people who just say "Why buy it" - who the hell cares, it's his money, he already bought it, and he's trying to make it work better. You add nothing toward the solution for the OP. You guys all act like it's some personal assault on your honor because he didn't buy what you like, or some condescending way in which you can preach from a mountaintop spewing "I told you so".
Thanks guys.
I'm surprised noone knows how this might be done but yeah I acknowledge the headset or the cord itself might be defective, the cord doesn't appear defective and as long as I remember to disable it at night, the continuous charging while using + the existing charge = quality sound. I just have a terrible memory for such things.
And yeah, the usb cord is plugged into a port in the back of the computer on a new system with wattage to spare (You guys helped me optimize what I wanted for a custom pc too). As convenient as my keyboard's usb's are, I'm rarely using them.
Spec'ing properly is a gateway drug.
12 Million People have been meter spammed in heroics.
Hey guys, bumping this thread for a related question...
How much power should a powered USB be putting out? A mechanic friend has a high end voltmeter with all the goodstuff and I basically wanted to test to see if it's pushing enough power.
Spec'ing properly is a gateway drug.
12 Million People have been meter spammed in heroics.
USB 2.0 is rated at 2.5 W. USB 3.0 is rated at 4.5 W. Gigabyte has some motherboards that they advertise as being able to deliver 7.5 W through USB 2.0 ports.
Note, also, that that's the wattage at the USB port. If you've got a long USB cable, you lose some power in transmission.
In terms of voltmeters:
High Power mode:
4.75-5.25V
500mA (USB 1 and 2), 900mA (USB 3)
Additionally, USB2 and 3 have two other modes:
Low Power mode: 4.0-4.25V @ 100mA(USB2)/150mA(USB3) (this is the default mode)
Battery Charging mode: 4.75-5.25V @ 1.5A (but only supports low bandwidth data)
A non-powered hub is
4.4-5.25V
The current can vary, as it must power itself, plus all attached devices cannot exceed the maximum for one port.
There are also other "dumb" devices which just connect and draw power (USB lamps, mug warmers, vacuum cleaners, some battery chargers, etc). These are limited to low power mode unless they actually register themselves as a device and declare that they require high power or battery charging mode, although older USB1 ports don't have these extra modes, and these devices can actually burn out older USB1 ports.
There is also a "Powered USB" hub, that supplies very high power (up to 6A and up to 24V) for industrial devices. These aren't common, and usually only found on like cash registers, warehouse computers, industrial PCs, etc.
Hate to necro but as this might come up in a google result and help others, I fixed my problem.
Updated the drivers for USB controller and problem solved. I'll update my OP as well. Not having any power issues.
Spec'ing properly is a gateway drug.
12 Million People have been meter spammed in heroics.