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Ugh, PC problem

MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
in Hardware
I have a 5+ year old PC that is having the following issue.  If I let the PC sit idle for XX minutes (Where XX is between 15 and 60) the OS becomes unresponsive.  I have a Samsung SSD that the OS.  I went through the even viewer and found:

"The device, \Device\Ide\iaStor0, did not respond within the timeout period."

Some google searches lead me to:
https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/windows/en-US/3356c10e-673f-4882-9e5d-b9d61bafce9f/the-device-deviceideiastor0-did-not-respond-within-the-timeout-period?forum=w7itprogeneral

This looked real promising.  I made the changes and the time to failure increased and the failure is now not as bad.  When the problem happens the PC becomes unusable, but I can at least shutdown properly. 

I have updated my video driver and samsung SSD driver.  The motherboard I have seems to be updated on the latest driver.  I also changed the SSD settings to turn off hard disk after 999999 minutes; sleep "Never". 

Motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705

SSD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147063

I think I am on the correct path with the drive going idle and then responding.  I am just not sure what else to do.  I also wonder if this is just the early stages of SSD failure.  I am planning on getting a new PC soon, but cannot right now for personal reason. 

Has anyone run into this before, and have they found a way around it.

I also did some other things like move the page file a different drive. 

Thanks in advance.




“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

--John Ruskin







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Comments

  • H0urg1assH0urg1ass Member EpicPosts: 2,380
    So just to clarify, you've had this same exact computer and setup for five years, you haven't made any hardware changes recently and you haven't made any OS changes recently, for instance like "upgrading" to windows 10?
  • WizardryWizardry Member LegendaryPosts: 19,332
    Nope the only problem i ever had with a HD was a weak plug connection that was really tough to realize,i was searching everywhere else but the connections.

    Seems your HD is simply not responding within a given time frame,so it could be as simple as a weak connection.If it is another piece of hardware that is sometimes failing,kind of seems odd,i feel most items either work or don't work,i don't really believe in "sometimes" failing.Even in case of say a bad sector on a HD,if it is bad,i would assume it is always bad and not sometimes.

    So either a weak connection somewhere or your HD does have some bad sectors.I have read mention that SSD's have limited rewrites on their sectors,weather true or not idk,but seems it is possible sectors can eventually fail.


    Never forget 3 mile Island and never trust a government official or company spokesman.

  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    H0urg1ass said:
    So just to clarify, you've had this same exact computer and setup for five years, you haven't made any hardware changes recently and you haven't made any OS changes recently, for instance like "upgrading" to windows 10?
    No changes.  Still on windows 7.  I have made some changes while I have been troubleshooting.

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    Wizardry said:
    Nope the only problem i ever had with a HD was a weak plug connection that was really tough to realize,i was searching everywhere else but the connections.


    I will check the connections later.

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • H0urg1assH0urg1ass Member EpicPosts: 2,380
    MMOman101 said:
    H0urg1ass said:
    So just to clarify, you've had this same exact computer and setup for five years, you haven't made any hardware changes recently and you haven't made any OS changes recently, for instance like "upgrading" to windows 10?
    No changes.  Still on windows 7.  I have made some changes while I have been troubleshooting.
    If you've made no changes whatsoever, and you've been using this same setup since around 2010-2011, then I would suspect hardware failure.  Especially considering that you have one of the earliest Samsung SSD's that they made and only 128GB.

    Personally, I would check all of your connections by unplugging them and plugging them back in again.  Then backup all important data and info from your machine to another drive and purchase a new SSD.  If that doesn't resolve the issue, then I would suspect the motherboard.

    SSD's are vastly cheaper than they were in 2010 and they have much better firmware on them now.  Not only that, but the SSD you have now is a SATA II device and your motherboard supports SATA III, so you'll end up with a huge upgrade for not much money by purchasing a new SSD even if it doesn't turn out to be the issue... at least assuming you aren't already using your two SATA III ports for other hard drives.
  • RemyVorenderRemyVorender Member RarePosts: 4,006
    Try a fresh install on the SSD. If you are still having the same issue, then it's time for a new drive. 

    Joined 2004 - I can't believe I've been a MMORPG.com member for 20 years! Get off my lawn!

  • filmoretfilmoret Member EpicPosts: 4,906
    I had this problem before and changing the power options fixed it.  It definitely had something to do with power to the hdd turning off when its idle and turning back on when you move the mouse or something.
    Are you onto something or just on something?
  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    I will check the connection.  I can't reinstall the os now, as I am staying in temporary housing and don't have and software. Not sure if I can get repair software with my current limitations.  I am pretty sure it is OS power related because disabling the lpm in the registry helped. 

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383
    May want to try the drive on a different SATA port, with a different cable. Those faults can be hard to troubleshoot.
  • QuizzicalQuizzical Member LegendaryPosts: 25,499
    If you haven't tried it yet, I'd try physically unplugging the cables that connect the SSD.  Do both the power and data cables, and disconnect both ends.  Also try swapping out the cables, as in, use a different SATA cable to connect to the SSD, plugged into a different SATA port on the motherboard.  Do the same with the SATA power cable if you can.

    Actually, do you know that it's an SSD error as opposed to some other device?  Some unspecified device not responding properly could be a lot of things.  I'd try reseating the cables on anything that could possibly be the problem.
  • NightliteNightlite Member UncommonPosts: 227
    an sfc /scannow wouldn't be out of order.
  • FuryVFuryV Member UncommonPosts: 515
    http://www.iobit.com/en/driver-booster.php - Try that out ;)
  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    Nightlite said:
    an sfc /scannow wouldn't be out of order.
    I checked the drives. Sorry I forgot to mention it 

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    Just changed out the cables and made sure everything was connected.  Guess I will know in ~30 minutes.

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    So not so much working as not working.  I think the ssd is done.  Any ideas on a new pc, ~1200 or so.  I thought about just replacing the is drive, but I don't have the os key and don't want to buy a new one.

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • WizardryWizardry Member LegendaryPosts: 19,332
    I would go for the best CPU you can get if you decide on a new PC.I personally used to read and think balance was the way to go but when i bought this PC i went for a good cpu and figured to change the GPU soon after.Well i was surprised that i can play any game i own with a crap gpu,the CPU really does matter a lot.
    All depends of course on how bad you think your current PC is,don't go wasting money if all you need is a new HD.BTW i don't have a SSD and doesn't bother me one bit,my load up time is not that bad,i hit power on,go to fridge,grab a snack or three come back and ready to go.

    BTW my gpu is so crap it is likely worth about 30 bucks,yet i have played FFXIV to new single player games like Dishonored and everything else under the sun.Point being,don't get talked into some 600+ dollar gpu,it is not needed.

    Never forget 3 mile Island and never trust a government official or company spokesman.

  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    I understand; however, 5 years is starting to push the reliability of some hardware.  I have a platter hd and that might go next.  Not really sure how much longer I can reasonably expect this pc to last.  1200 every 5 years is not bad at all.

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • DarLorkarDarLorkar Member UncommonPosts: 1,082
    Would start a new thread if you have decided to go for a new comp. 

    Easier for the people that recommend builds to see and reply that way.

    List exactly all the parts you need and DO NOT need.  Like need keyboard mouse  NOT need windows case so on.  And total top price you are willing  to spend. 

    Good luck.
  • Octagon7711Octagon7711 Member LegendaryPosts: 9,004
    edited October 2016
    MMOman101 said:
    So not so much working as not working.  I think the ssd is done.  Any ideas on a new pc, ~1200 or so.  I thought about just replacing the is drive, but I don't have the os key and don't want to buy a new one.
    If used Acronis for years to mirror drives and windows has never asked for a key.  When my drives used to get infected I'd pop in the backup reformat and write over the infected drive and everything was back to normal. I only got a request for a key after a  system reinstall but not for cloned drive.

    One problem with cloning is that it will also copy any corrupted files so it's best to make a copy when you first get the system.

    "We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa      "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are."  SR Covey

  • filmoretfilmoret Member EpicPosts: 4,906
    edited October 2016
    I would clone the drive to a new one.  If it asks for a key at that point then you gotta pirate one.  Its not illegal considering you are just trying to activate something you already own.  But yea you can pull the product key from your hdd with some programs that is probably the best choice.
    Are you onto something or just on something?
  • MMOman101MMOman101 Member UncommonPosts: 1,787
    The only problem is the drive is getting less stable.  Don't think I have time for a clone.  I might try to pull the key off borrow a hd see if I can get it working.  I don't think I need anything off of it.  I think it's only os 

    “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

    --John Ruskin







  • filmoretfilmoret Member EpicPosts: 4,906
    SedrynTyros said:
    Octagon7711 said:
    MMOman101 said:
    So not so much working as not working.  I think the ssd is done.  Any ideas on a new pc, ~1200 or so.  I thought about just replacing the is drive, but I don't have the os key and don't want to buy a new one.
    If used Acronis for years to mirror drives and windows has never asked for a key.  When my drives used to get infected I'd pop in the backup reformat and write over the infected drive and everything was back to normal. I only got a request for a key after a  system reinstall but not for cloned drive.
    Yeah, typically, if the filesystem is still intact, you can create a backup image and replace the hard drive without the Windows Product Authentication kicking in.  WPA will only kick in if it detects a significant difference in hardware when you restore the image, like if the motherboard has a different chipset.
    Even if it triggers the authenticator he can grab the key before doing any of this.  That way he can just type it back in and call the number provided to get his validation.  Since he does have a key that would be the smarter move to pull it off his HDD and try to use it if it asks.
    Are you onto something or just on something?
  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383
    WIndows 10 doesn't usually ask for a CD Key upon reinstallation
  • RidelynnRidelynn Member EpicPosts: 7,383
    Also, there are tools (that aren't the same thing as pirating) that let you get the CD key out of a Windows Registry, if you lost the sticker/box - most are free to download that I've seen. Even if you can't get it to boot long enough to do it, you can install on the new drive, you get 30-90 days before Windows will lock you out, that's plenty of time to do some recovery on the failing drive and try to get the CD key out after the fact.

    A new SSD is cheap. An entire new computer is not. Even if you do want to build an entire new computer, getting this computer back up and running is worth it, even if it's just to sell it off to pay for the new build.
  • filmoretfilmoret Member EpicPosts: 4,906
    Ridelynn said:
    WIndows 10 doesn't usually ask for a CD Key upon reinstallation
    He's using windows 7
    Are you onto something or just on something?
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