Running
hd 640gb wd 640aals
120gb ssd (windows 10)
Asus p8p67
intel core i5 2500k (cpu cooler loki sd963
8gb ram
ge force gtx 970
corsair cx500m power supply (about two years old.)
I am having strange power issues.
if the computer goes into hibernation,
if i turn if off by holding in the power supply for 15 seconds,
if i hit the sleep button on the keyboard,
recently trying to boost my bios from power saving to extreme performance option, and a few others things the computer will go black on me. I wont be able to access the computer bios or anything for 24 hours. The computer will run fans or anything but the monitor will get no signal After about 24 hours though everything is fine again.
I have unplugged everything and plugged in back in. no good
I have tried to drain the power supply by holding in the button whiles its off. no good.
I have used that little reset thingy on the motherboard to reset the bios and again no good.
I have disabled all sleep things in windows 10. I think i even tried disabling the fast start (have to try that one again) and again no good.
Waiting about 24 hours though and everything restarts just fine.
The other strange thing about the 24 hours is it does not seem to be entirely related to power drain. Leaving it plugged or unplugged things will be fine again.
Comments
Since you were screwing around in your bios I would not be quick to say PSU, but still PSU is one of the easiest things to diagnose simply through switching it out with one you know is good.
Lots of hardware folks hang out there and you're more likely to get a good diagnosis there than from a bunch of gamers here.
~~ postlarval ~~
Sorry got a little too over the top.
Basically if the computer shuts off in certain ways it will not post for 24 hours. Its like it stuck in hibernation. I cant restart or anything, cant even get a monitor signal. Then 24 hours later its all fine again.
I'd check for dust. Get a can of compressed air and blast any heatsinks on the CPU, GPU (if the card gives you easy access), and motherboard you can find. Even if they look fine from a cursory visual inspection, they might well be full of dust. Make sure that the computer is off when you do this. If a ton of dust comes flying out, you might have just fixed the problem.
"We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." SR Covey
Running a processor slowly damages it due to electromigration. The damage usually just means it can't clock as high as before, not that it abruptly fails entirely. Overclocking and overvolting the CPU damages it much faster. At stock speeds, electromigration might mean that after 20 or 50 years of use or some such, the CPU can no longer run at stock speeds, but by then, it's so old that no one cares--and no one would keep the CPU that long to find out, even. But if you're overclocking very far, the time before an initially stable overclock becomes unstable can easily be measured in months or years.
Look at your motherboard manual for further instructions.
Sometimes I can get it figured out - sometimes not. And I just figure out exactly what isn't working and, then, I don't do that.
I've seen a lot of computers able to sleep but not hibernate, able to hibernate but not sleep, not be able to go into sleep at all, go into sleep but wake themselves up every hour or so, never be able to enter any sort of sleep mode at all without locking up, the list goes on. I don't know why, but Windows PCs and sleep just has never really worked out very well or consistently - probably because there are about 400,000 different combinations of Pstates and power save modes across all the various hardware, and motherboard/system manufacturers aren't ever able to adhere to some set standard that Microsoft and other various driver providers can make work consistently.
As Quizz say could it be a motherboard problem as well, and heck, having too low power could actually hurt the motherboard (it is very rare but it happens).
I think the GFX card is a bit too greedy and having minimum speccs for the PSU is just begging for problems.
The third possibility is that it is heat (or dust in the fans).
I would say 60% PSU, 25% motherboard and 15% heat. Of course you can go into administrative tools and check the logs like I do if I get any problems. That should show us what the problem actually is instead of guessing. Here is a link how to do it (if you don't already know): https://windowsinstructed.com/access-windows-error-logs-windows/
My guesses are settings, dust, video cable, or blown capacitor.
I've had a very similar issue happen twice. Once was the hard drive starting to fail and having issues reading the MBR. It was a crap shoot and Windows would sit there without showing anything while attempting to read it. Sometimes it would work, sometimes I would just give up. Sometimes there would be a mouse cursor on the black screen, sometimes not. It was incredibly infuriating in the randomness of it. The other time was antivirus messing with something in Start Up. It has been a few years so I can't remember the particulars on which files, but disabling them all then going back and enabling one or two at a time narrowed it down easy enough.
The Caps Lock test esc-joconnor mentioned can narrow it down some. Also, see if your monitor ever powers on then shuts down when you try to start it up. You can try to wake it up using Windows+CTRL+SHIFT+B. If it comes on then, see what input it is set on or looking for a signal from. Some monitors don't search and switch automatically
Uninstall/reinstall video drivers.
Lastly, I would check for a firmware update for the SSD. Especially if it is an older one. MS has thrown out a few updates fairly recently and one might have pissed it off for some reason.
Those are the cheap steps I'd try before I started throwing money at it semi-randomly.
Ok things are back up and running. It turns out it was the tpu/ epu and possibly something related to fast start up. Changing the settings in my bios without doing the same with the switches on the motherboard seems to brick the computer. Thanks for the help from everyone, really helped me figure stuff out. I think my next upgrade is probably going to be a better power supply, I kind of want to try overclocking the i5 2500k because I keep hearing its great at that.
Is this a decent power supply?
https://www.amazon.co.jp/Corsair-RM750x-GOLD認証取得-750W静音電源ユニット-CP-9020092-JP/dp/B0190M09RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517407974&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+750&th=1
Probably within the year I am planning on upgrading motherboard and cpu.
Yeh i bought the current power supply as kind of a panic purchased after the other one crapped out. Didnt open it and went to return it to get a better one after rethinking, but many stores here in Japan will not take returns back even unopened so was stuck with it.
Upgrading motherboard and CPU also means RAM upgrade (DDR3 to DDR4), so that may be a more expensive proposition than you are thinking initially. It ~probably~ also means a new OS license.
Also, Corsair in general makes good to great power supplies, but the RM line was the only Corsair line to ever fail in HardOCP testing. Supposedly they have fixed it since, but I dunno...
https://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/11/13/corsair_rm750_750w_power_supply_review/9
Pretty much any other Corsair and I'd shrug and say OK, it's probably fine.
If your looking for a solid brand - anything from Seasonic ranges from pretty good to flippin' outstanding - almost across the board without exception.
https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator
Going off what you've listed and getting pretty liberal with items you haven't, I came up with roughly 450w and a recommendation of 485w PSU. I try to add a minimum of 20% overhead when I overclock. Never use that much and it only calculates to a tiny fraction more power, but you want consistency with no ripples or drops to have a solid OC. Your 750w should be fine. We've reach the point now where things are becoming more efficient with more power due to die sizes and such so it is more likely than not that a 750w will be fine on a future build as well.
I just recommended the FocusPlus Gold because it tests out within a split hair of their top of the line models, efficiency aside. It was kind of a "meet them on price, beat them on quality" addition to the lineup.
Plus, I feel a little more comfortable with a PSU that the manufacturer itself has badged. That's just me though