No, it's not just shock range. The whole pdf is showing the conditions, aka specifications, these are tested and are specced to work at. It's the whole range they are guaranteed to work right at.
The 3rd pic you are shown two basic models of the switches that have different specs and yes they have quite a range (30v) HOWEVER the min range for their optimal operation and at which they were tested is 5v min and 1ma or 100ma min depending on which model you look at.
Current mice operate in the range circled in blue instead of like previously when mice work at the min 5v range of the switches.
The circuitry has evolved over time. That's why companies try to control issues like bounce via software when they know very well it's all rooted in hardware issues however why sell a mice once 5 years when you could sell one every 1 to 2 years?
TBH it's not like some evil conspiracy where companies thought lets screw over our clientele. It's more that circuitry design has shifted since we want to use less power due to having lots of non wired peripherals and peeps like or want wireless etc etc
However they want to keep using older designed switches cause welp those omrons were pretty good back in the day and became renown so they should still be good today...right lol...... however like I said above inner circuitry has changed to wanting to use less volts inside so those chips inside use 3.3 volts instead of 5volts which is the min these switches are guaranteed to work good at.
This lead to companies trying to use firmware to fix problems however you can only do so much with software to compensate for hardware problems and these switches running under the intended in volts affects bounce, chattering and polling rates which ironically today mice tend to have also higher polling rates.
Basically these switches today are running in BS wtf land, in the blue circle, instead of we are good to go greenland area which is along the 5v mark and higher.
That's why these switches worked so well in say the mx518 original mouse but not so well in new mice today.
It's not a conspiracy however companies know very well it is a hardware issue and are kind of complicit in ignoring the issues cause it leads to more sales.
Not going to argue that wear isn't part of it but the wear has much quicker effect and impact due to all of the above and like I said we are not using the mice in the use conditions they were tested at so that lower voltage it's like just the push needed for mice to be crappy nowadays and have clicking issues compared to before when looking at why old mice might have lasted much longer using the same switches.
btw the D2F"C" means they were made in china..that what the C means. the
same switch that has no C like the D2F is made in japan and is of
better quality.
The D2FC have much sloppier tolerances, less quality in the metal and pretty much everything compared to the jap D2F version.
The -01. or lack of, in switch numbers indicated the spring material used gold plated or silver plated etc.
-F usually is spring rate like 75grams, it is generally accpeted that the C version are 60grams instead of 75 like the jap ones.
-K I do believe is a china hybrid attempt to make them work better in mice a non k might crap out after a couple months while the k version might last a year or a bit more
(xx) is lifespan or number of million of clicks it is suppose to last for but lets be real they never last that long
other numbers indicate other things like T indicates a self clinching terminal or say L which indicate it has a lever.
If you look at Omron's model numbering on first page of that document, DF2-01 switches are rated for 30 VDC and 100mA. If you then look at the full version of that operating range chart, 30V and 100 mA is the maximum point of its operating range:
You posted before this picture of D2FC-F-7N
It's rated for DC6V 1mA - which would mean that's the maximum point of its operating range.
We don't know what the minimum is. But for D2F-10 switches the minimum voltage is 1/6 of maximum voltage and at that voltage minimum current is 1/100 of maximum current. If we use those to approximate D2FC-F-7N's operating range, it would start at 1V and 0.01mA.
EDIT: In practice I don't think D2FC-F-7N goes that low since it gets harder to make parts that work reliably at such low voltages and currents without suffering from oxidation. But if maximum is DC6V 1mA, then whatever modern mice use is likely to be well within its operating range.
No you are reading or understanding this wrong.
What I circled in red is their min range not the max range, the tests are not so much concerned with the max range as generally these things are not used with that much max volts.
Look at the chart it shows D2F-01 the switches working range is at the top end 30v @min 0.16ma to a max of 100ma while the low end for them is 5v @min 1ma to 100ma.
The chart shows that all D2F-01 are intended for mice and such and it shows that max and min range in grey.... the general load D2F are not really intended for mice but other applications which is why thier min range is so much higher.
That grey area is their in fact intended working range which todays mice are not in. Even the old mice were just barely in it by being at the very minimum.
What is pertinent is the min range which is what they tested for and is written in the pdf AND shown in the the 3rd picture.
It changes nothing to what I have been saying as the trouble and issue with these switches in mice is the min volt and amps.
Back in the day mice would do like 5 volts or just under and maybe 0.6 - 0.7ma which is just under the min 1ma but now they operate in like 3.3v or just under and at like 0.1ma.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
I've generally assumed that mouse and keyboard buttons failing was a mechanical problem, not an electrical one. As electrical parts go, they're very low power, to the extent that heat isn't a meaningful issue. But unlike most computer parts, a given button can be clicked and released many thousands of times, and that creates a lot of physical wear and tear that most computer parts just don't have.
I've generally assumed that mouse and keyboard buttons failing was a mechanical problem, not an electrical one. As electrical parts go, they're very low power, to the extent that heat isn't a meaningful issue. But unlike most computer parts, a given button can be clicked and released many thousands of times, and that creates a lot of physical wear and tear that most computer parts just don't have.
Wear and tear is part of the problem but these switches can't even fight oxidation and these low volts and amps makes the wear and tear worse.
Companies know this which is why you have like razer trying to get around this with like their optical mice switches or asus making them the switches hot swappable in some of their mice.
Frankly I am not sure why we haven't gotten a "mice revolution" equivalent to the membrane vs mechanical keyboards with hot swappable switches.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
I've generally assumed that mouse and keyboard buttons failing was a mechanical problem, not an electrical one. As electrical parts go, they're very low power, to the extent that heat isn't a meaningful issue. But unlike most computer parts, a given button can be clicked and released many thousands of times, and that creates a lot of physical wear and tear that most computer parts just don't have.
Wear and tear is part of the problem but these switches can't even fight oxidation and these low volts and amps makes the wear and tear worse.
Companies know this which is why you have like razer trying to get around this with like their optical mice switches or asus making them the switches hot swappable in some of their mice.
Frankly I am not sure why we haven't gotten a "mice revolution" equivalent to the membrane vs mechanical keyboards with hot swappable switches.
On a number of occasions, I've taken apart broken input devices to try to figure out what the problem was. I've often seen physical problems, such as torn membranes, hair or dirt blocking a connection, or components rotated or otherwise misaligned. In some cases, I've even been able to fix them. That doesn't mean that physical problems are the only possible cause, but they are common.
Low voltage and low amperages won't damage wires. If it did, then powering them off would destroy them, as that gets you 0 volts and 0 amps. High amperages can damage wires, and high voltages can create too much heat and cause overheating. But on both counts, too much is what causes the damage, not too little.
Too low of voltage is a problem in CPUs, GPUs, and other similar chips not because it breaks them, but because it causes them to malfunction. They are designed with a clock speed assuming that electrical charges move around by some particular time so that some other place on the chip can read the necessary bits. Too low of a voltage means that that doesn't happen on time, and that causes some bits to get improperly flipped. That won't permanently damage the hardware, but it will cause them to spit out garbage data, and that will have undesired effects such as causing your computer to blue screen.
That's not a problem with input devices because the polling frequency is so low. The default Windows polling rate is 125 Hz. Gaming devices with a higher polling rate for reduced latency may use 1 kHz. That's slower than the typical clock speed of modern logic chips by a factor of a million or so.
Furthermore, even if a charge doesn't get there on time, it just means that pressing a button won't register until the next time it is polled. That's only added latency, not a crash. Through realistically, that hardly ever happens, and only in edge cases where you were right on the boundary as to whether you hit a button on time for it to register for a given instance where your device is polled.
Too low of voltage is commonly a problem in wires that have to draw a fixed wattage because a fixed wattage at low voltage requires higher amperage. That can push things out of spec and cause them to fail. But the voltages and amperages necessary for keyboards and mice to work are so low and the gauge of wire large enough that this isn't a meaningful problem. Maybe you could make it into a problem for a fancy input device that actually uses a substantial amount of power, but not for a simple keyboard or mouse.
I've generally assumed that mouse and keyboard buttons failing was a mechanical problem, not an electrical one. As electrical parts go, they're very low power, to the extent that heat isn't a meaningful issue. But unlike most computer parts, a given button can be clicked and released many thousands of times, and that creates a lot of physical wear and tear that most computer parts just don't have.
Wear and tear is part of the problem but these switches can't even fight oxidation and these low volts and amps makes the wear and tear worse.
Companies know this which is why you have like razer trying to get around this with like their optical mice switches or asus making them the switches hot swappable in some of their mice.
Frankly I am not sure why we haven't gotten a "mice revolution" equivalent to the membrane vs mechanical keyboards with hot swappable switches.
On a number of occasions, I've taken apart broken input devices to try to figure out what the problem was. I've often seen physical problems, such as torn membranes, hair or dirt blocking a connection, or components rotated or otherwise misaligned. In some cases, I've even been able to fix them. That doesn't mean that physical problems are the only possible cause, but they are common.
Low voltage and low amperages won't damage wires. If it did, then powering them off would destroy them, as that gets you 0 volts and 0 amps. High amperages can damage wires, and high voltages can create too much heat and cause overheating. But on both counts, too much is what causes the damage, not too little.
Too low of voltage is a problem in CPUs, GPUs, and other similar chips not because it breaks them, but because it causes them to malfunction. They are designed with a clock speed assuming that electrical charges move around by some particular time so that some other place on the chip can read the necessary bits. Too low of a voltage means that that doesn't happen on time, and that causes some bits to get improperly flipped. That won't permanently damage the hardware, but it will cause them to spit out garbage data, and that will have undesired effects such as causing your computer to blue screen.
That's not a problem with input devices because the polling frequency is so low. The default Windows polling rate is 125 Hz. Gaming devices with a higher polling rate for reduced latency may use 1 kHz. That's slower than the typical clock speed of modern logic chips by a factor of a million or so.
Furthermore, even if a charge doesn't get there on time, it just means that pressing a button won't register until the next time it is polled. That's only added latency, not a crash. Through realistically, that hardly ever happens, and only in edge cases where you were right on the boundary as to whether you hit a button on time for it to register for a given instance where your device is polled.
Too low of voltage is commonly a problem in wires that have to draw a fixed wattage because a fixed wattage at low voltage requires higher amperage. That can push things out of spec and cause them to fail. But the voltages and amperages necessary for keyboards and mice to work are so low and the gauge of wire large enough that this isn't a meaningful problem. Maybe you could make it into a problem for a fancy input device that actually uses a substantial amount of power, but not for a simple keyboard or mouse.
To low voltage means damage in the form of oxidation corrosion which does cause damage to these very lightly plated switches and the bounce and debounce is affected because of this. More oxidation means higher resistance, again causing problems, and leading to far earlier failure.
That's why sometimes just cleaning a switch works and sometimes it doesn't or it works once and then not the second time.
Even if they used noble metal if the voltage is too low it will just get chewn through, with enough voltage it actually helps stop the oxidation and the damage caused by it.
Oh and the higher polling rates does have an effect, sometimes you get a mice with a clicking issue and lowering the polling rate makes it go away for awhile....guess why!
While sure keyboards will often have the hair or sticky coke in them and need cleaning mice switches are suppose to be "sealed" from this ofc the china ones are not as sealed as good as the jap one and possibly other mice switches like kailh ones etc.
Again the cheap switches are far more likely to have damage caused by peeps pressing or clicking harder...again often times due to the shitty switches not working right or just bad mice design where the switches have some wobble in the springs etc etc.
Also for mice switches you are not likely to have dry contact switches so it needs enough wetting current to keep the surface refreshed and avoid these problems.
You can buy a new set of omrons and if they have been in storage too long they can be too oxidized and not work very well or very long and since the switches are running out of spec...so again needs a certain amount of wetting current that these switches were getting at 5v but not so much with a 3.3v logic and power in todays mice.
Post edited by Asm0deus on
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Heh writing this down is far too long and difficult so was going to make a video however after googling for some pics and images I actually found someone had already made a video.
After flicking through it I think it says pretty much what I was trying to explain but in far more detail and in far more entertaining fashion. In fact the image I found with the blue circle might even be one he added!
He even has some DIY "fixes" I might give a try for the fun of it when my newish corsair scimiter rgb elite starts to crap out.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Mice can last for weeks on a AA battery. They do not put enough voltage or amps through a switch for any of these electrical concerns to even remotely come into play -- just convenient excuses that sound "smart" for people who don't know any better looking for clicks on videos.
Cheap mice can last for years. Bad switches are ... bad switches. I've got a cheap Dell mouse that's 15 years old - it doesn't put high voltage or current to "clean oxidation" or whatever. It's just two cheap switches and a LED tracking mechanism. There's no real mystery or overwhelming engineering flaw - just a case of either companies using inappropriate parts to raise margins, or using expensive "name brand" parts that don't work better than cheap parts.
Mice can last for weeks on a AA battery. They do not put enough voltage or amps through a switch for any of these electrical concerns to even remotely come into play -- just convenient excuses that sound "smart" for people who don't know any better looking for clicks on videos.
Cheap mice can last for years. Bad switches are ... bad switches. I've got a cheap Dell mouse that's 15 years old - it doesn't put high voltage or current to "clean oxidation" or whatever. It's just two cheap switches and a LED tracking mechanism. There's no real mystery or overwhelming engineering flaw - just a case of either companies using inappropriate parts to raise margins, or using expensive "name brand" parts that don't work better than cheap parts.
You need to stick to your own trade cause you're talking rubbish here. I bet you didn't even watch the video as your 2nd sentence clearly shows. I think you're the one sounding off here to "look smart" in a forum about something you just are not knowledgeable enough to have a clue.
The science is sound even if you can't see that due to your own ignorance.
Post edited by Asm0deus on
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Cheap mice can last for years. Bad switches are ... bad switches. I've got a cheap Dell mouse that's 15 years old
The science is sound even if you can't see that due to your own ignorance.
Very well.
How do you explain my Dell mouse then - and the millions of other examples like that, when very expensive Razers (among others) fail all over themselves?
How do you explain my Dell mouse then - and the millions of other examples like that, when very expensive Razers (among others) fail all over themselves?
Are they somehow immune to the sound science?
It's all in that video if wish to educate yourself. In fact the whole point of that video was exactly that why were old mice lasting so much longer than most new "gamer" mice.
Some of it will most likely be over your head though.
Anyways the thread has been highjacked enough. Watch it and learn something or not.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
What I circled in red is their min range not the max range, the tests are not so much concerned with the max range as generally these things are not used with that much max volts.
Look at the chart it shows D2F-01 the switches working range is at the top end 30v @min 0.16ma to a max of 100ma while the low end for them is 5v @min 1ma to 100ma.
The chart shows that all D2F-01 are intended for mice and such and it shows that max and min range in grey.... the general load D2F are not really intended for mice but other applications which is why thier min range is so much higher.
That grey area is their in fact intended working range which todays mice are not in. Even the old mice were just barely in it by being at the very minimum.
What is pertinent is the min range which is what they tested for and is written in the pdf AND shown in the the 3rd picture.
It changes nothing to what I have been saying as the trouble and issue with these switches in mice is the min volt and amps.
Back in the day mice would do like 5 volts or just under and maybe 0.6 - 0.7ma which is just under the min 1ma but now they operate in like 3.3v or just under and at like 0.1ma.
What sort of mouse interface are you using that operates at 3.3 V? I presume that it's not USB, which is what I use and have used for many years. USB has been 5 V from the very start. USB type C allows higher voltages than that (which is important for charging devices), but not lower. There will be some voltage drop through a long cable, but it's going to take an awfully long cable to drop the voltage all the way to 3.3 V.
Really, though, if you've figured out how to make mice reliable and all of the major mouse vendors haven't, why don't you start your own company making and selling reliable mice? You could get rich if you're right.
How do you explain my Dell mouse then - and the millions of other examples like that, when very expensive Razers (among others) fail all over themselves?
Are they somehow immune to the sound science?
It's all in that video if wish to educate yourself. In fact the whole point of that video was exactly that why were old mice lasting so much longer than most new "gamer" mice.
Some of it will most likely be over your head though.
Anyways the thread has been highjacked enough. Watch it and learn something or not.
"Go watch this video that is more than an hour long" is not a valid forum argument.
This is my last reply on this, it's clear you guys are more interested in "winning" this argument or discussion rather than actually learning anything.
I worked in electronics most of my life, paid off a mortgage doing such. I am not going to keep arguing as it's clear you two know it all even if you can't be bothered to peruse the information you have been given.
I can only suggest you both go back to school, study electronics, go work in the field then you come argue in a forum with people in forums that are replying like you both are...
Saying stupid things like hur dur usb is 5v is just that hur dur, same as saying faulty switches are just that faulty switches....that's the kind of stupid that leads to techs we call part switchers or "changeur de pieces".
People that may know some of the basics but don't really understand the fundamentals so just keep changing parts without looking further and trying to understand why they are needing to do so in the first place.
Oh and you don't own this forum and my replies are very valid. If you don't like them maybe you can go make your own forum and run it according to your own rules since you know best.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
How do you explain my Dell mouse then - and the millions of other examples like that, when very expensive Razers (among others) fail all over themselves?
Are they somehow immune to the sound science?
Your 15 year old dell mouse has far lower dpi, probably around 2500. Newer gaming mice are 20,000 and onwards. The CPU inside the mouse has
to work much harder to process that many pixels many times per second. If you provide the model of your dell mouse or simply take a look yourself and compare to that of a newer mouse, you'll see your dell mouse has much older, less demanding specifications.
The science is sound even if you can't see that due to your own ignorance.
What does DPI have to do with Omron switches?
This is my last reply on this, it's clear you guys are more interested in "winning" this argument or discussion rather than actually learning anything.
No, I'm more interested in getting to the truth. I think you have it exactly wrong - but if you can come up with some valid evidence that's grounded in something credible, I'm all ears.
So far it's just been a lot of parrotting - you just want to insult our education level and point to a video by some Youtube influencer who wants clicks, along with a lot of misguided theories.
The corrosion issue almost has merit, I admit. Except it falls down in the face of cheap mice, which don't seem to exhibit the issue, and if anything were going to exhibit a problem like that it would be the absolute cheapest available switches made in bulk. Most mice I see fail are because the switch breaks (the doubleclick of death) -- that isn't corrosion at all, that's a bad mechanical design... but I admit I don't physically see all failed mice.
I do happen to be an engineer in real life, btw... I'd be happy to go back to school, as I deal more with a different scale of power than USB, but I'm afraid I can't afford more education right now.
Guys asks for a recommended PC build. Guy instead gets thread full of "mouse switches do this".
It's all good . Waiting on my case and I'm done. This is a little entertaining and informative at least. I was going to use my old case but it's pretty battered. Then took a vacation and now...here we go!
Who the he'll cares about mouse switches. I mean even if you pay 125 bucks and it dies in 5 years it is 125 bucks. I do don't see why anyone would are care about mouse durability enough to have this conversation.
“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”
Who the he'll cares about mouse switches. I mean even if you pay 125 bucks and it dies in 5 years it is 125 bucks. I do don't see why anyone would are care about mouse durability enough to have this conversation.
If it were always 5 years (or better) I'd agree. When it's less than 1 year, I get a bit peeved if I paid that much though.
Who the he'll cares about mouse switches. I mean even if you pay 125 bucks and it dies in 5 years it is 125 bucks. I do don't see why anyone would are care about mouse durability enough to have this conversation.
If you encourage trash production, you'll get more trash production.
If you are holding out for the perfect game, the only game you play will be the waiting one.
Who the he'll cares about mouse switches. I mean even if you pay 125 bucks and it dies in 5 years it is 125 bucks. I do don't see why anyone would are care about mouse durability enough to have this conversation.
If you encourage trash production, you'll get more trash production.
There is no actual product testing here. If there was it might be useful to someone assuming it was presented in a manner that it was digestible. That was all a waste. Anyone who pretends otherwise is fooling themselves.
“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”
Comments
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Low voltage and low amperages won't damage wires. If it did, then powering them off would destroy them, as that gets you 0 volts and 0 amps. High amperages can damage wires, and high voltages can create too much heat and cause overheating. But on both counts, too much is what causes the damage, not too little.
Too low of voltage is a problem in CPUs, GPUs, and other similar chips not because it breaks them, but because it causes them to malfunction. They are designed with a clock speed assuming that electrical charges move around by some particular time so that some other place on the chip can read the necessary bits. Too low of a voltage means that that doesn't happen on time, and that causes some bits to get improperly flipped. That won't permanently damage the hardware, but it will cause them to spit out garbage data, and that will have undesired effects such as causing your computer to blue screen.
That's not a problem with input devices because the polling frequency is so low. The default Windows polling rate is 125 Hz. Gaming devices with a higher polling rate for reduced latency may use 1 kHz. That's slower than the typical clock speed of modern logic chips by a factor of a million or so.
Furthermore, even if a charge doesn't get there on time, it just means that pressing a button won't register until the next time it is polled. That's only added latency, not a crash. Through realistically, that hardly ever happens, and only in edge cases where you were right on the boundary as to whether you hit a button on time for it to register for a given instance where your device is polled.
Too low of voltage is commonly a problem in wires that have to draw a fixed wattage because a fixed wattage at low voltage requires higher amperage. That can push things out of spec and cause them to fail. But the voltages and amperages necessary for keyboards and mice to work are so low and the gauge of wire large enough that this isn't a meaningful problem. Maybe you could make it into a problem for a fancy input device that actually uses a substantial amount of power, but not for a simple keyboard or mouse.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Cheap mice can last for years. Bad switches are ... bad switches. I've got a cheap Dell mouse that's 15 years old - it doesn't put high voltage or current to "clean oxidation" or whatever. It's just two cheap switches and a LED tracking mechanism. There's no real mystery or overwhelming engineering flaw - just a case of either companies using inappropriate parts to raise margins, or using expensive "name brand" parts that don't work better than cheap parts.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
How do you explain my Dell mouse then - and the millions of other examples like that, when very expensive Razers (among others) fail all over themselves?
Are they somehow immune to the sound science?
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Really, though, if you've figured out how to make mice reliable and all of the major mouse vendors haven't, why don't you start your own company making and selling reliable mice? You could get rich if you're right.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
No, I'm more interested in getting to the truth. I think you have it exactly wrong - but if you can come up with some valid evidence that's grounded in something credible, I'm all ears.
So far it's just been a lot of parrotting - you just want to insult our education level and point to a video by some Youtube influencer who wants clicks, along with a lot of misguided theories.
The corrosion issue almost has merit, I admit. Except it falls down in the face of cheap mice, which don't seem to exhibit the issue, and if anything were going to exhibit a problem like that it would be the absolute cheapest available switches made in bulk. Most mice I see fail are because the switch breaks (the doubleclick of death) -- that isn't corrosion at all, that's a bad mechanical design... but I admit I don't physically see all failed mice.
I do happen to be an engineer in real life, btw... I'd be happy to go back to school, as I deal more with a different scale of power than USB, but I'm afraid I can't afford more education right now.
--John Ruskin
If you are holding out for the perfect game, the only game you play will be the waiting one.
--John Ruskin