I've got 10 of the APC units (or something similar to that) I linked in my first post - all of them have monitors on them. I've had them running for several years. The on-LCD display lets you see exactly how many watts your drawing, and it will protect itself from overloading if you do overload it.
I've got 10 of the APC units (or something similar to that) I linked in my first post - all of them have monitors on them. I've had them running for several years. The on-LCD display lets you see exactly how many watts your drawing, and it will protect itself from overloading if you do overload it.
Cool. I didn't know. Learning. Just saw it mentioned that some ministers could be damaged on some UPS's.
I did come to the conclusion if I really wanted to know wattage. That I should fix my pc and plug a wall meter in and put it under load. Might do That and see if the pure sine wave is big enough. If not, probably just get the one you listed which Is one of the units I was honestly looking at initially. Think grunty thought I was a spammer cause of my links. I just cut corners didn't not link neatly. guess I know all I need to know at this point just a matter of buying and doing. Thank you as always.
just realised. i lost access to everything. passwords. all on storage drive. which should be good. but.. jesus.. lesson learned.
A Kill-A-Watt will tell you (and is an expensive tool that's otherwise handy to have around), but you need to make sure you include everything you plan on plugging into the UPS.
Also, most setups don't use anywhere near as much power as you would think - you always see ratings which are at 100% load, and almost never is every component in your entire system under 100% load at the same time.
Just to give you one data point: Right now, my rig (4970k, 980GTX, no overclocks), playing FFXIV as I type this on Chrome, with 2 24" LCD monitors, 50W external audio amplifier, 4-bay NAS, 4-port switch/WiFi bridge, mini-desk fan, 7W LED lamp, and a charging 15" Macbook Pro: 488W from the wall according to this UPS (APC RS-1500).
Just a thought, to confirm it's the ssd I would pull it and see how it runs as an external drive or put in a hd. Hopefully it's not a problem with the motherboard. Does sound like the drive though.
"We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." SR Covey
Originally posted by Octagon7711 Just a thought, to confirm it's the ssd I would pull it and see how it runs as an external drive or put in a hd. Hopefully it's not a problem with the motherboard. Does sound like the drive though.
I thought about that. I don't really have a means to test atm. But it could be the motherboard. Just assuming it's not since everything only acts up when the ssd is detected. . I haven't replaced anything. Just don't have the money and to much going on. So haven't ordered anything. Life happened. Not appropriate to talk about here.
How about TI5. My god that techies from E.G. Was hilarious. On a kick out match too. Can't believe how bad the turtle was from the other guys just because of that character. Last match of yesterday. 2nd game of the match. So funny. Other team had no idea how to respond at all. If any match worth watching in ti5 that's it. There's other actual good matches but e.g. Techies was pure entertainment on their possibly final match of the tournament. They ended up wining that and game 3 to stay in ti5.
Kingston HyperX Savage 240 gb is a nice size, has been reliable thus far, and has good speeds without costing too much (it's maybe 110 on newegg i think
Got a Samsung SSD 850 240gb was like $30 off. Paid a premium I know. I saw a Kingston that was same size $30 cheaper. After the last one failed thought I would try another brand. I know stuff happens not really Kingstons fault. We upgraded our Uverse. Nightmare from hell. Not even.. My god. 10 phone calls 20 live chats. nightmare. Line was dead for like a week. they miseed 4 finish by dates. Finally got fixed today, Bought the Seasonic 660 platinum.
Haven't zip tied or screwed the PSU in but everything seems good. Installing updates atm. After i get the inside of the case I will measure the wattage of the surge protector with the Kill A Watt. Then order a UPS. Thanks for input everyone.
You have a disk now so this comment is after the fact however - my understanding is that SSDs are an all or nothing so if it ran sometimes it could be corrupt files.
As you have a new ssd may be qorth seeing if you can reimage it if you have the usd / sata cable.
Other steps when you had it installed would have been:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
sfc /scannow
You would run these in "cmd" as administrator. Don't necessarily have to both be run and there are different options e.g. sometimes you need to run dism ..... /checkheath first. See forums for details.
dism stands for "deployment image servicing and management"; sfc stands fot "system file checker".
You have a disk now so this comment is after the fact however - my understanding is that SSDs are an all or nothing so if it ran sometimes it could be corrupt files.
As you have a new ssd may be qorth seeing if you can reimage it if you have the usd / sata cable.
Other steps when you had it installed would have been:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
sfc /scannow
You would run these in "cmd" as administrator. Don't necessarily have to both be run and there are different options e.g. sometimes you need to run dism ..... /checkheath first. See forums for details.
dism stands for "deployment image servicing and management"; sfc stands fot "system file checker".
I do have spare cables and I will try and see if anything I can do with the old one. Planed to try and fix it or rma it. I tried a lot can't tell you what exactly but I even ran a few commands when I was able to get into the repair area booting from cd. Spent all day on it. I'm not that tech savvy. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a way to fix it I over looked or didn't find. I didn't have access to another pc. to hook it up to. Didn't want windows on my storage. I'll see. I'll have two ssd's at some point lol.
I have found that my slot drive is really useful when working on harddrives. I just stick it to my E-SATA or USB slot and put in the harddrive, great way to backup stuff on a hardrive (or to hide your porn .
They tend to be cheap ($20-35) and are great if you want to bring movies for a laptop or to bring to a friend as well. Far better than a USB drive since you basically can slot in any old drive into it when you need to.
I used Prime95 And FurMark at the same time to try and put my pc under load. 350 watts or so with all peripherals. CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD is the ups I bought. should be here Thursday. I think it should work. I hope. It gets warm playing Ark surviuval evolved maxed out. Not hot. Thinking about a water cooling the CPU and GPU and being done with it hopefully for a few years. I've kinda wanted to water cool it anyway. decent loop probably won't cost me much. I haven't researched it yet however.
Custom water cooling loops will set you back some cash. To do both a CPU and GPU, plan on $300+ by the time you've got all the components and connectors. The only thing that is cheap is the water.
Custom water cooling loops will set you back some cash. To do both a CPU and GPU, plan on $300+ by the time you've got all the components and connectors. The only thing that is cheap is the water.
I briefly looked. didn't check prices. Process looked slightly overwhelming making a parts list. I am mechanically inclined. comfortable cutting my case if need be. It's hidden anyway. Honestly I thought there would be some prefabs that I could just cut the lines. and add a better radiator if needed. I wonder if I could reduce cost by using a parts store. Get a heater core. some heator core lines and attached those to the water blocks or whatever they are called. To tired to look right now. Up all night. Just got back from V.A. stuff. still more to do before I pass out.
I have found that my slot drive is really useful when working on harddrives. I just stick it to my E-SATA or USB slot and put in the harddrive, great way to backup stuff on a hardrive (or to hide your porn .
They tend to be cheap ($20-35) and are great if you want to bring movies for a laptop or to bring to a friend as well. Far better than a USB drive since you basically can slot in any old drive into it when you need to.
I have a few of those. Great to have around the house. Really come in handy.
"We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." SR Covey
I have found that my slot drive is really useful when working on harddrives. I just stick it to my E-SATA or USB slot and put in the harddrive, great way to backup stuff on a hardrive (or to hide your porn .
They tend to be cheap ($20-35) and are great if you want to bring movies for a laptop or to bring to a friend as well. Far better than a USB drive since you basically can slot in any old drive into it when you need to.
Is that a USB3 connection, ESATA or both?
My case has a hot-swap slot built in for SSDs only but it'd be handy to have one of those for old drives too.
Can you post a link to the one pictured?
"Social media gives legions of idiots the right to speak when they once only spoke at a bar after a glass of wine, without harming the community ... but now they have the same right to speak as a Nobel Prize winner. It's the invasion of the idiots”
― Umberto Eco
“Microtransactions? In a single player role-playing game? Are you nuts?” ― CD PROJEKT RED
You have a disk now so this comment is after the fact however - my understanding is that SSDs are an all or nothing so if it ran sometimes it could be corrupt files.
As you have a new ssd may be qorth seeing if you can reimage it if you have the usd / sata cable.
Other steps when you had it installed would have been:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
sfc /scannow
You would run these in "cmd" as administrator. Don't necessarily have to both be run and there are different options e.g. sometimes you need to run dism ..... /checkheath first. See forums for details.
dism stands for "deployment image servicing and management"; sfc stands fot "system file checker".
I do have spare cables and I will try and see if anything I can do with the old one. Planed to try and fix it or rma it. I tried a lot can't tell you what exactly but I even ran a few commands when I was able to get into the repair area booting from cd. Spent all day on it. I'm not that tech savvy. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a way to fix it I over looked or didn't find. I didn't have access to another pc. to hook it up to. Didn't want windows on my storage. I'll see. I'll have two ssd's at some point lol.
Meant to type USB to SATA cable - some SSDs come with them making it easy to copy the contents of an existing drive to the new one using one of the PCs USB slot. If you upgraded to an SSD you might have one. (Price to buy - dirt cheap to rip off) Alternatively - if your case has space + cables to add the "dead" drive then: - option 1 if there is nothing you want to keep you can perform a "secure erase" a low level reformat that will essentially restore the drive to its factory state. The drive's software from the manufacturer's website - e.g. Magician for Samsung or Toolbox for Intel, Corsair, SanDisk, OCZ. - option 2 attach ssd by cable or in case or a slot drive whatever; boot pc with new drive; run command prompt (admin); you should be able to change directory to the dead ssd e.g. cd e: - the letter being whatever letter has been assigned. Then type and run the following: /sfc scannow /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth /sfc scannow
If you are not online it is harder. If you forget to change to the bad drive these commands won't harm your new drive. Sadly the process is like sanding wood - it can take more than one pass hence the reason for a second sfc. Log files will be generated in windows/logs/cbs and windows/logs/dism Lots of stuff - just scroll down to the bottom, maybe throw the last message into google or run the above a few times.
Obviously if the drive is dead it is dead but it sounds like the operating or file system died.
You have a disk now so this comment is after the fact however - my understanding is that SSDs are an all or nothing so if it ran sometimes it could be corrupt files.
As you have a new ssd may be qorth seeing if you can reimage it if you have the usd / sata cable.
Other steps when you had it installed would have been:
dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
sfc /scannow
You would run these in "cmd" as administrator. Don't necessarily have to both be run and there are different options e.g. sometimes you need to run dism ..... /checkheath first. See forums for details.
dism stands for "deployment image servicing and management"; sfc stands fot "system file checker".
I do have spare cables and I will try and see if anything I can do with the old one. Planed to try and fix it or rma it. I tried a lot can't tell you what exactly but I even ran a few commands when I was able to get into the repair area booting from cd. Spent all day on it. I'm not that tech savvy. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a way to fix it I over looked or didn't find. I didn't have access to another pc. to hook it up to. Didn't want windows on my storage. I'll see. I'll have two ssd's at some point lol.
Meant to type USB to SATA cable - some SSDs come with them making it easy to copy the contents of an existing drive to the new one using one of the PCs USB slot. If you upgraded to an SSD you might have one. (Price to buy - dirt cheap to rip off) Alternatively - if your case has space + cables to add the "dead" drive then: - option 1 if there is nothing you want to keep you can perform a "secure erase" a low level reformat that will essentially restore the drive to its factory state. The drive's software from the manufacturer's website - e.g. Magician for Samsung or Toolbox for Intel, Corsair, SanDisk, OCZ. - option 2 attach ssd by cable or in case or a slot drive whatever; boot pc with new drive; run command prompt (admin); you should be able to change directory to the dead ssd e.g. cd e: - the letter being whatever letter has been assigned. Then type and run the following: /sfc scannow /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth /dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth /sfc scannow
If you are not online it is harder. If you forget to change to the bad drive these commands won't harm your new drive. Sadly the process is like sanding wood - it can take more than one pass hence the reason for a second sfc. Log files will be generated in windows/logs/cbs and windows/logs/dism Lots of stuff - just scroll down to the bottom, maybe throw the last message into google or run the above a few times.
Obviously if the drive is dead it is dead but it sounds like the operating or file system died.
Yes I know this is and old thread of mine. Let me explain how I got to this point and then why I am posting!
Ok so I saw this thread. http://forums.mmorpg.com/discussion/459256/the-division-dx12-gameplay-benchmarks/p3. In that thread op posts a benchmark. I think to myself "Wonder what my temps would be like on my I5. So I download Prime95 and mess around. Slightly warmer than it should be on a evo 212. Same cooler he says that was used there. I know different cpu's ect. But basically just wanted to compare. Ok. I get to looking at my case. Dusty as a mofo. I pull it out of it's corner. Open up my pc and dust everything really good. Pulled the fans. Pulled the GPU. Used a soft paint brush and canned air.. Even noticed my front fan was not spinning because the filter fell on it. Can't see it without really opening it up and looking. Fans are basically silent anyway. Spin slow.
ANYWAY. I see the failed SSD which I had just put in a box after I replaced it. Just sat there. I remember this thread and this post and decide to try and recover it. I dock it, restart. Boom there's the drive.. I can see folders on it ect. If I try to open them I can't or the properties of the drive for that matter. Drive then just vanishes. OK. I reboot find this thread and your post.
So here I am to finally say after a year!!!!!!!! I recovered that SSD. Gervaise1 those commands worked like a charm. Able to access the drive. The files. Properties ect. So I got another small SSD to install a couple games on. Anyway. I got a chuckle out of how long it's been and that I just got around to trying this. LMAO Thank you!
In general:
Still not happy with my Prime95 Temps. Thinking about ordering some thermal paste and reinstalling my evo 212. I'd like a water setup. But no idea which to buy. I don't want to get anything crazy expensive. I also don't want anything that isn't that great either. I have room and supposedly this case was built with water cooling in mind (even though it's not that great of a case. But I digress.
Edit: OK worst part is. My case does have a dock built in. I just never tried it. I don't know why. Just didn't. lmao
Prime95 is a stress test, and with newer CPUs, it can really hammer on AVX instructions to push your CPU much, much harder than any games plausibly could. I've actually seen it argued that it's not very good for consumer use anymore precisely because it pushes the CPU too hard. I don't expect games to ever use AVX instructions all that much, as a game that had a workload that could would put it on the GPU. I'm not saying that games won't use AVX at all, but there's a huge difference between maximum width AVX instructions as 10% of your instructions versus 90%.
Prime95 is a stress test, and with newer CPUs, it can really hammer on AVX instructions to push your CPU much, much harder than any games plausibly could. I've actually seen it argued that it's not very good for consumer use anymore precisely because it pushes the CPU too hard. I don't expect games to ever use AVX instructions all that much, as a game that had a workload that could would put it on the GPU. I'm not saying that games won't use AVX at all, but there's a huge difference between maximum width AVX instructions as 10% of your instructions versus 90%.
I didin't run it long. I was watching temps and saw them spike. Went a lot higher than I was comfortable with. So almost instantly shut it off. I looked up what safe temps were and I didn't cross that line. But I was right there. I wasn't happy. I'll play some games with HWMonitor up see where temps go.
I don't personally know anyone that runs Prime95 to stress their computer for the purposes of gaming. I run P95 and ITB to stress my overclock and to burn in components when I've built a new computer from scratch.
Honestly, @Hulluck if you're not overclocking your CPU, then don't worry about Prime95 temps. Normal gaming won't even come close to maxing out the potential of your CPU and if a game is causing your CPU to run at max, then there's a major problem with the game or some drivers somewhere.
If you are Overclocking, then P95 and/or ITB are a good way to test stability, and that's about all I use it for. Find a stable OC, and then don't run it again. I sure as shit never run P95 for 24+ hours like some people I talk to. You might as well sit in your car and hold the pedal down just below red line for a whole day. It's a pointless, and non-representative task that reduces the life of the components.
I don't personally know anyone that runs Prime95 to stress their computer for the purposes of gaming. I run P95 and ITB to stress my overclock and to burn in components when I've built a new computer from scratch.
Honestly, @Hulluck if you're not overclocking your CPU, then don't worry about Prime95 temps. Normal gaming won't even come close to maxing out the potential of your CPU and if a game is causing your CPU to run at max, then there's a major problem with the game or some drivers somewhere.
If you are Overclocking, then P95 and/or ITB are a good way to test stability, and that's about all I use it for. Find a stable OC, and then don't run it again. I sure as shit never run P95 for 24+ hours like some people I talk to. You might as well sit in your car and hold the pedal down just below red line for a whole day. It's a pointless, and non-representative task that reduces the life of the components.
Not overclocking. Not found a need to. I just did it out of pure curiosity to his Prime95 post. Different CPU I know. Though same cooler which is what sparked my curiosity. I wonder what kind of temps my cpu gets compared to his. Which lead to other events including fixing that SSD. I procrastinated like a mofo on that. I would like things to be cooler all around. Not so much at idle but even while in use.
At idle writing this.
Core #0 is 26-29 C staying closer to 29 Core #1 is 29-31 staying close to 31 Cores #2 & #3 are 25-28 Staying at 26c mostly. I'd like them to be a bit more in unison. But guessing anything from poor thermal paste spread to just "it's normal".
Your temps are perfectly fine, don't worry about each core being a different temp. A lot of that has to do with sensor placement on the die.. yadda yadda, just take an average of all of them and you're fine. If you're running a Hyper212 on a non-OC'd CPU, then you're good to go.
I can grab whatever I guess. $100 range give or take a little. Slightly shocked it's dead. But the pc was on 24/7. Think what did it in was a power surge , flicker. PSU Did not take anything else. Not sure if it's bad. It wasn't a bad surge but woke up to errors. Was laying in bed when it happened. On a surge protector to. I should not have left it on in the storm. Lesson learned. SSD Shows up sometimes, other times it doesn't. Fairly certain it's dead. Was a Kingston hyperx sh103s3 120 gb.
Amazon prime or new egg. No idea what to get. PSU isn't that old capstone 650w 80 plus gold. With the the drive not hooked up everything else seems fine. Everything was bought and built in december. Just thankful that I didn't loose much data or anything else. Definitely going to look into something to protect my pic better.
thanks for any help
James
Okay first of all I have left my PC on at all times, but I have warranty which will cover power surge damage to my PC... In the U.S its usually $5 on the light bill worth getting per month covers damages...
Second, You should have a (UPS) Basically a battery back-up, its also important to change the battery every 5-8 years as failure to do so can result in a house fire...
Third, You need to have your outlet properly grounded the outlet in which the PC is plugged into, get this...
Test which wire is the hot, put it on the small side of the outlet which is usually the right side, and the neutral on the other side, keep in mind some idiots like to not label wiring correctly so don't just grab it thinking its not hot, always test the tester porperly on a hot circuit, and the power does have to be on to get a reading on the wires...
Add a Ground Wire if its got none get a long ground stake the kind for electrical purposes and run the wire there, Modern homes have the main breaker box grounded too, some of the older homes don't have this so if not might want to invest in doing this properly or just running a new outlet and box with grounding wire for your PC, and big electronics like refrigerator...,Optional buy a Satnd-Buy Generator, or manual start and switch your pc over to back-up power during a storm if you really want to stay on gaming use a different outlet to switch them to if you don't want to add the relays to the box and all that which costs more...
Remember to follow the safety instructions too, and if there are 4 wires in your outlet make sure you check the tabs before re-wiring on the configuration don't want to connect two hot wires together, although I have not seen this much...
As for your computer I would test the SSD, it could be a main-board / Moset failure if a surge actually happened its likely it fried the Motherboard Over most other things,although its possible just when my PC was exposed to water, and a surge once it fried the main board PC wouldn't stay on so personally I would take out the board, and inspect all the chips on the board properly, use a Flashlight shine it through the bottom a (LED high powered flash light to inspect the inner dye circuits for damage if you don't think there is any you can re-use it...
Assuming its just the SSD that failed I would personally buy a Intel SSD, I hear not sure yet but from what I read and hear they have the lowest failure rates of them all I have only had mine about 7 months now and its working great.
If you cant afford it although I got this one for a lot less at the time I purchased it then go with whatever you feel like I guess, I paid only $159 for it...
"Install Only your Primary OS on the SSD."
. And Apps, and Diagnostic Software, such as Anti-Virus, stuff you won't be removing for a long time.
" Use a Second Hard - Drive Move all your "Default Save Locations" and "User Folders" to the secondary drive directory on windows 10."
" Use a Third Hard Drive" and install your games on this one get the largest money can buy..."
"Do Not buy a "Sea Gate Drive (EVER) These are the worst money can buy and often fail, Here is proof of why I really do not like Sea Gate drives at all..
Here you can see dirve G:\ is my Sea Gate take a look at the "Reallocated Sector Count" I have been running all these drives as an experiment and have all data backed up really my "Sea Gate" has "66 Raw Value Reallocated" and 61837644 Read Error Rate, vs "Drive E" which is a old "Maxtor Drive, with a "Raw Value of 5" and 16657, vs My Western Digital Drive H with zero reallocated sectors, and even "Drive F"...
Drive E,F,G have been being used for (11 Years) many power on hours...
As for if other drives failed on your system there is sometimes or often a fuse that can be cut off the hard-drive to make it load up again don't know about SSD's on this but on regular drives there are each model is different.
Always keep data backed up, always (Two Copies) of each drive, and if you really got the money just get a good brand drive cloner. or do it manually...
Get a Back-Up Drive, and simply go into your directory where all your photos are for example Drive E:\ where your main user folder should be if using an SSD anyways Copy your user folder and your done very simple very easy... Keep two copies of this at least every 6 months if you are like me as for games and other drive back-up that is optional but no need to really back up all your games you can just re-download off steam.
Your temps are perfectly fine, don't worry about each core being a different temp. A lot of that has to do with sensor placement on the die.. yadda yadda, just take an average of all of them and you're fine. If you're running a Hyper212 on a non-OC'd CPU, then you're good to go.
Yup, part of it is placement, part of it is that thermocouples are not entirely all that accurate. Most are +/- a couple of degrees at best - they are very consistent and reliable, but what one thermocouple reads as 35C another may read as 37C just due to intrinsic differences.
Often in temperature reading software, you will find offsets where you can calibrate the thermocouple readings to compensate for that if you really wanted to. The BIOS and most basic temperature monitors won't do that though, because it's going to be close enough for most practical purposes.
Your temps look normal to me, and those are good idle temps to have.
Comments
I've got 10 of the APC units (or something similar to that) I linked in my first post - all of them have monitors on them. I've had them running for several years. The on-LCD display lets you see exactly how many watts your drawing, and it will protect itself from overloading if you do overload it.
Cool. I didn't know. Learning. Just saw it mentioned that some ministers could be damaged on some UPS's.
I did come to the conclusion if I really wanted to know wattage. That I should fix my pc and plug a wall meter in and put it under load. Might do That and see if the pure sine wave is big enough. If not, probably just get the one you listed which Is one of the units I was honestly looking at initially. Think grunty thought I was a spammer cause of my links. I just cut corners didn't not link neatly. guess I know all I need to know at this point just a matter of buying and doing. Thank you as always.
just realised. i lost access to everything. passwords. all on storage drive. which should be good. but.. jesus.. lesson learned.
A Kill-A-Watt will tell you (and is an expensive tool that's otherwise handy to have around), but you need to make sure you include everything you plan on plugging into the UPS.
Also, most setups don't use anywhere near as much power as you would think - you always see ratings which are at 100% load, and almost never is every component in your entire system under 100% load at the same time.
Just to give you one data point:
Right now, my rig (4970k, 980GTX, no overclocks), playing FFXIV as I type this on Chrome, with 2 24" LCD monitors, 50W external audio amplifier, 4-bay NAS, 4-port switch/WiFi bridge, mini-desk fan, 7W LED lamp, and a charging 15" Macbook Pro: 488W from the wall according to this UPS (APC RS-1500).
"We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." SR Covey
I thought about that. I don't really have a means to test atm. But it could be the motherboard. Just assuming it's not since everything only acts up when the ssd is detected. . I haven't replaced anything. Just don't have the money and to much going on. So haven't ordered anything. Life happened. Not appropriate to talk about here.
How about TI5. My god that techies from E.G. Was hilarious. On a kick out match too. Can't believe how bad the turtle was from the other guys just because of that character. Last match of yesterday. 2nd game of the match. So funny. Other team had no idea how to respond at all. If any match worth watching in ti5 that's it. There's other actual good matches but e.g. Techies was pure entertainment on their possibly final match of the tournament. They ended up wining that and game 3 to stay in ti5.
Got a Samsung SSD 850 240gb was like $30 off. Paid a premium I know. I saw a Kingston that was same size $30 cheaper. After the last one failed thought I would try another brand. I know stuff happens not really Kingstons fault. We upgraded our Uverse. Nightmare from hell. Not even.. My god. 10 phone calls 20 live chats. nightmare. Line was dead for like a week. they miseed 4 finish by dates. Finally got fixed today, Bought the Seasonic 660 platinum.
Haven't zip tied or screwed the PSU in but everything seems good. Installing updates atm. After i get the inside of the case I will measure the wattage of the surge protector with the Kill A Watt. Then order a UPS. Thanks for input everyone.
You have a disk now so this comment is after the fact however - my understanding is that SSDs are an all or nothing so if it ran sometimes it could be corrupt files.
As you have a new ssd may be qorth seeing if you can reimage it if you have the usd / sata cable.
Other steps when you had it installed would have been:
I do have spare cables and I will try and see if anything I can do with the old one. Planed to try and fix it or rma it. I tried a lot can't tell you what exactly but I even ran a few commands when I was able to get into the repair area booting from cd. Spent all day on it. I'm not that tech savvy. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a way to fix it I over looked or didn't find. I didn't have access to another pc. to hook it up to. Didn't want windows on my storage. I'll see. I'll have two ssd's at some point lol.
I have found that my slot drive is really useful when working on harddrives. I just stick it to my E-SATA or USB slot and put in the harddrive, great way to backup stuff on a hardrive (or to hide your porn
.
They tend to be cheap ($20-35) and are great if you want to bring movies for a laptop or to bring to a friend as well. Far better than a USB drive since you basically can slot in any old drive into it when you need to.
"We all do the best we can based on life experience, point of view, and our ability to believe in ourselves." - Naropa "We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." SR Covey
Is that a USB3 connection, ESATA or both?
My case has a hot-swap slot built in for SSDs only but it'd be handy to have one of those for old drives too.
Can you post a link to the one pictured?
“Microtransactions? In a single player role-playing game? Are you nuts?”
― CD PROJEKT RED
Alternatively - if your case has space + cables to add the "dead" drive then:
- option 1 if there is nothing you want to keep you can perform a "secure erase" a low level reformat that will essentially restore the drive to its factory state. The drive's software from the manufacturer's website - e.g. Magician for Samsung or Toolbox for Intel, Corsair, SanDisk, OCZ.
- option 2 attach ssd by cable or in case or a slot drive whatever; boot pc with new drive; run command prompt (admin); you should be able to change directory to the dead ssd e.g. cd e: - the letter being whatever letter has been assigned. Then type and run the following:
/sfc scannow
/dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth
/dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth
/dism.exe /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
/sfc scannow
If you are not online it is harder. If you forget to change to the bad drive these commands won't harm your new drive. Sadly the process is like sanding wood - it can take more than one pass hence the reason for a second sfc. Log files will be generated in windows/logs/cbs and windows/logs/dism Lots of stuff - just scroll down to the bottom, maybe throw the last message into google or run the above a few times.
Obviously if the drive is dead it is dead but it sounds like the operating or file system died.
Yes I know this is and old thread of mine. Let me explain how I got to this point and then why I am posting!
Ok so I saw this thread. http://forums.mmorpg.com/discussion/459256/the-division-dx12-gameplay-benchmarks/p3. In that thread op posts a benchmark. I think to myself "Wonder what my temps would be like on my I5. So I download Prime95 and mess around. Slightly warmer than it should be on a evo 212. Same cooler he says that was used there. I know different cpu's ect. But basically just wanted to compare. Ok. I get to looking at my case. Dusty as a mofo. I pull it out of it's corner. Open up my pc and dust everything really good. Pulled the fans. Pulled the GPU. Used a soft paint brush and canned air.. Even noticed my front fan was not spinning because the filter fell on it. Can't see it without really opening it up and looking. Fans are basically silent anyway. Spin slow.
ANYWAY. I see the failed SSD which I had just put in a box after I replaced it. Just sat there. I remember this thread and this post and decide to try and recover it. I dock it, restart. Boom there's the drive.. I can see folders on it ect. If I try to open them I can't or the properties of the drive for that matter. Drive then just vanishes. OK. I reboot find this thread and your post.
So here I am to finally say after a year!!!!!!!! I recovered that SSD. Gervaise1 those commands worked like a charm. Able to access the drive. The files. Properties ect. So I got another small SSD to install a couple games on. Anyway. I got a chuckle out of how long it's been and that I just got around to trying this. LMAO Thank you!
In general:
Still not happy with my Prime95 Temps. Thinking about ordering some thermal paste and reinstalling my evo 212. I'd like a water setup. But no idea which to buy. I don't want to get anything crazy expensive. I also don't want anything that isn't that great either. I have room and supposedly this case was built with water cooling in mind (even though it's not that great of a case. But I digress.
Edit: OK worst part is. My case does have a dock built in. I just never tried it. I don't know why. Just didn't. lmao
Honestly, @Hulluck if you're not overclocking your CPU, then don't worry about Prime95 temps. Normal gaming won't even come close to maxing out the potential of your CPU and if a game is causing your CPU to run at max, then there's a major problem with the game or some drivers somewhere.
If you are Overclocking, then P95 and/or ITB are a good way to test stability, and that's about all I use it for. Find a stable OC, and then don't run it again. I sure as shit never run P95 for 24+ hours like some people I talk to. You might as well sit in your car and hold the pedal down just below red line for a whole day. It's a pointless, and non-representative task that reduces the life of the components.
I would like things to be cooler all around. Not so much at idle but even while in use.
At idle writing this.
Core #0 is 26-29 C staying closer to 29
Core #1 is 29-31 staying close to 31
Cores #2 & #3 are 25-28 Staying at 26c mostly. I'd like them to be a bit more in unison. But guessing anything from poor thermal paste spread to just "it's normal".
Second, You should have a (UPS) Basically a battery back-up, its also important to change the battery every 5-8 years as failure to do so can result in a house fire...
Third, You need to have your outlet properly grounded the outlet in which the PC is plugged into, get this...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
And if its not grounded get this, or reverse polarity get this...
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482704963&sr=1-1&keywords=non+contact+tester
Test which wire is the hot, put it on the small side of the outlet which is usually the right side, and the neutral on the other side, keep in mind some idiots like to not label wiring correctly so don't just grab it thinking its not hot, always test the tester porperly on a hot circuit, and the power does have to be on to get a reading on the wires...
Add a Ground Wire if its got none get a long ground stake the kind for electrical purposes and run the wire there, Modern homes have the main breaker box grounded too, some of the older homes don't have this so if not might want to invest in doing this properly or just running a new outlet and box with grounding wire for your PC, and big electronics like refrigerator...,Optional buy a Satnd-Buy Generator, or manual start and switch your pc over to back-up power during a storm
Remember to follow the safety instructions too, and if there are 4 wires in your outlet make sure you check the tabs before re-wiring on the configuration don't want to connect two hot wires together, although I have not seen this much...
As for your computer I would test the SSD, it could be a main-board / Moset failure if a surge actually happened its likely it fried the Motherboard Over most other things,although its possible just when my PC was exposed to water, and a surge once it fried the main board PC wouldn't stay on so personally I would take out the board, and inspect all the chips on the board properly, use a Flashlight shine it through the bottom a (LED high powered flash light to inspect the inner dye circuits for damage if you don't think there is any you can re-use it...
Assuming its just the SSD that failed I would personally buy a Intel SSD, I hear not sure yet but from what I read and hear they have the lowest failure rates of them all I have only had mine about 7 months now and its working great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C786AW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you cant afford it although I got this one for a lot less at the time I purchased it then go with whatever you feel like I guess, I paid only $159 for it...
"Install Only your Primary OS on the SSD."
. And Apps, and Diagnostic Software, such as Anti-Virus, stuff you won't be removing for a long time.
" Use a Second Hard - Drive Move all your "Default Save Locations" and "User Folders" to the secondary drive directory on windows 10."
" Use a Third Hard Drive" and install your games on this one get the largest money can buy..."
"Do Not buy a "Sea Gate Drive (EVER) These are the worst money can buy and often fail, Here is proof of why I really do not like Sea Gate drives at all..
http://imgur.com/a/gEefA
Here you can see dirve G:\ is my Sea Gate take a look at the "Reallocated Sector Count" I have been running all these drives as an experiment and have all data backed up really my "Sea Gate" has "66 Raw Value Reallocated" and 61837644 Read Error Rate, vs "Drive E" which is a old "Maxtor Drive, with a "Raw Value of 5" and 16657, vs My Western Digital Drive H with zero reallocated sectors, and even "Drive F"...
Drive E,F,G have been being used for (11 Years) many power on hours...
As for if other drives failed on your system there is sometimes or often a fuse that can be cut off the hard-drive to make it load up again don't know about SSD's on this but on regular drives there are each model is different.
Always keep data backed up, always (Two Copies) of each drive, and if you really got the money just get a good brand drive cloner. or do it manually...
Get a Back-Up Drive, and simply go into your directory where all your photos are for example Drive E:\ where your main user folder should be if using an SSD anyways Copy your user folder and your done very simple very easy... Keep two copies of this at least every 6 months if you are like me as for games and other drive back-up that is optional but no need to really back up all your games you can just re-download off steam.
Often in temperature reading software, you will find offsets where you can calibrate the thermocouple readings to compensate for that if you really wanted to. The BIOS and most basic temperature monitors won't do that though, because it's going to be close enough for most practical purposes.
Your temps look normal to me, and those are good idle temps to have.