Originally posted by QuizzicalThe DVD needs both a SATA data cable that connects to the motherboard and a SATA power cable that connects to the power supply. Both connectors have unique shapes (basically an L-shape with opposite orientations), so any cable that fits nicely is the "right" one.
Do you know about any site with pictures? I guess I could supply them myself. Its not only the DVD drive that is plugged in wrong.. :P
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Originally posted by QuizzicalThe DVD needs both a SATA data cable that connects to the motherboard and a SATA power cable that connects to the power supply. Both connectors have unique shapes (basically an L-shape with opposite orientations), so any cable that fits nicely is the "right" one.
Do you know about any site with pictures? I guess I could supply them myself. Its not only the DVD drive that is plugged in wrong.. :P
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
I think I have 3 cables from my cabinet. The problem I have is where to put them:P
Originally posted by QuizzicalThe DVD needs both a SATA data cable that connects to the motherboard and a SATA power cable that connects to the power supply. Both connectors have unique shapes (basically an L-shape with opposite orientations), so any cable that fits nicely is the "right" one.
Do you know about any site with pictures? I guess I could supply them myself. Its not only the DVD drive that is plugged in wrong.. :P
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
I think I have 3 cables from my cabinet. The problem I have is where to put them:P
Cabinst? If you mean the case then those are probably LED cable, like HDD and Power indicator lights, and other minor devices on the front of the case. These can have 1, 2, 3 or more wires on each connection. They may be single row connectors or 2 row connectors. If they are 2 row they may also have a filled in connector slot to prevent incorrect connection.
If that is so then each should be labeled with a 2 or 3 letter indication of what they are for. Since motherboards vary as to where those connections go you will need to read the MB manual to find out where and how to make those connections.
They look similar to these,
Left to right those are for the case speaker/beeper (not main speakers) Reset switch, Power switch, HDD indicator light and Power indicator light. You may have less or more connectors.
"I used to think the worst thing in life was to be all alone. It's not. The worst thing in life is to end up with people who make you feel all alone." Robin Williams
Originally posted by QuizzicalThe DVD needs both a SATA data cable that connects to the motherboard and a SATA power cable that connects to the power supply. Both connectors have unique shapes (basically an L-shape with opposite orientations), so any cable that fits nicely is the "right" one.
Do you know about any site with pictures? I guess I could supply them myself. Its not only the DVD drive that is plugged in wrong.. :P
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
I think I have 3 cables from my cabinet. The problem I have is where to put them:P
Cabinst? If you mean the case then those are probably LED cable, like HDD and Power indicator lights, and other minor devices on the front of the case. These can have 1, 2, 3 or more wires on each connection. They may be single row connectors or 2 row connectors. If they are 2 row they may also have a filled in connector slot to prevent incorrect connection.
If that is so then each should be labeled with a 2 or 3 letter indication of what they are for. Since motherboards vary as to where those connections go you will need to read the MB manual to find out where and how to make those connections.
They look similar to these,
Also as you can see from the handy picture is that they are labeled and the MB usually is labeled too.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Op do yourself a favor and dont try to overclock your computer. If your already having trouble with overheating, and you cant hook the cables up properly your looking at a very very expensive lesson in overclocking.
Your i-7 is pretty good out of the gate, your games should run fine, your files should unzip pretty speedy, and if your converting files youll do great.
If you do eventually want to start overclocking go to an overclocking website and read everything about it, follow their directions and if anything breaks just realize it was totally avoidable.
Good luck on your current issue, i cant imagine a chip overheating at stock speeds with a stock cooler unless something was done wrong, even most included heatsinks can handle a small overclock.
Good luck though, im not trying to be critical of you and its great your asking questions and learning, but blowing out an expensive more or less top of the line chip when its not entirely necessary is a tough lesson to stomach.
Op do yourself a favor and dont try to overclock your computer. If your already having trouble with overheating, and you cant hook the cables up properly your looking at a very very expensive lesson in overclocking.
Your i-7 is pretty good out of the gate, your games should run fine, your files should unzip pretty speedy, and if your converting files youll do great.
If you do eventually want to start overclocking go to an overclocking website and read everything about it, follow their directions and if anything breaks just realize it was totally avoidable.
Good luck on your current issue, i cant imagine a chip overheating at stock speeds with a stock cooler unless something was done wrong, even most included heatsinks can handle a small overclock.
Good luck though, im not trying to be critical of you and its great your asking questions and learning, but blowing out an expensive more or less top of the line chip when its not entirely necessary is a tough lesson to stomach.
Hehe, yea my main priority is not overclockling. Just getting my current system to run smooth.
Originally posted by QuizzicalThe DVD needs both a SATA data cable that connects to the motherboard and a SATA power cable that connects to the power supply. Both connectors have unique shapes (basically an L-shape with opposite orientations), so any cable that fits nicely is the "right" one.
Do you know about any site with pictures? I guess I could supply them myself. Its not only the DVD drive that is plugged in wrong.. :P
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
I think I have 3 cables from my cabinet. The problem I have is where to put them:P
Cabinst? If you mean the case then those are probably LED cable, like HDD and Power indicator lights, and other minor devices on the front of the case. These can have 1, 2, 3 or more wires on each connection. They may be single row connectors or 2 row connectors. If they are 2 row they may also have a filled in connector slot to prevent incorrect connection.
If that is so then each should be labeled with a 2 or 3 letter indication of what they are for. Since motherboards vary as to where those connections go you will need to read the MB manual to find out where and how to make those connections.
They look similar to these,
Also as you can see from the handy picture is that they are labeled and the MB usually is labeled too.
Yes, the cables and MB is labled, but they dont match. I will try and look up a manual for the MB.
While you're at it try blocking off about half of the front ventilation and check the temperatures. With the entire front open there will be no real directed air flow through the system. You'll know in 10-15 minutes if things are a bit cooler.
I'd leave the bottom half clear myself.
"I used to think the worst thing in life was to be all alone. It's not. The worst thing in life is to end up with people who make you feel all alone." Robin Williams
The difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
The difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
The difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
Originally posted by grndzro Originally posted by QuizzicalThe difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
I dont know Coollaboratory Liquid PRO Thermal Interface Materialis very good. 4c is a good drop from basic thermal paste. IC diamond is also very good.
4C isn't bad, but unless your shooting to OC to the absolute limit and are extremely heat limited (and most people are not, they worry once they get up around 70C or are just using off the shelf air coolers), then why bother.
Originally posted by QuizzicalThe difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
I dont know Coollaboratory Liquid PRO Thermal Interface Materialis very good. 4c is a good drop from basic thermal paste. IC diamond is also very good.
4C isn't bad, but unless your shooting to OC to the absolute limit and are extremely heat limited (and most people are not, they worry once they get up around 70C or are just using off the shelf air coolers), then why bother.
Great video, wish I read the disclaimer before I bought a happy fun ball.
as many others mentioned, get the EVO 212 cooler, it's the best cooler for it's price, has only 7-11C cooling difference compared to the H100i for less than half the price and less noise aswell, make sure your case fits that fan first, never use stock cooler.
The difference of one thermal paste versus another or reapplying thermal paste basically amounts to a rounding error. Thermal paste doesn't actually conduct heat very well (worse than aluminum or copper by about a factor of 100)
is very good. 4c is a good drop from basic thermal paste. IC diamond is also very good.
It also corrodes aluminum very quickly, which is what your heatspreader is probably made from.
Nickel plated copper is standard. Aluminum oxidizes so would make a poor heat spreader. All the heating up and cooling down would degrade it quickly.
Goes back as far as I can recall. I lapped my old Athlon 64 and it was nickel plated copper. Same with C2D/C2Q, A-X2.
You probably have an old processor around somewhere. just rub it on some fine sandpaper for a while.
I lap everything. makes a big difference in temperature.
You're probably right; I didn't look it up before posting that. But still, I'd be leery of spreading something around the system that is known to destroy aluminum and who knows what else.
I will say - despite corrosion or anything else... metal-based heatsink compound is difficult to work with. It tends to conduct electricity, and if any of it gets where it's not supposed to be - particulary if you put a touch too much on and it oozes out from between the heat spreader and heat sink and out into the ZIF socket - you've pretty much toasted the system. Of you get some on your fingers and touch something else on the motherboard (that paste is messy stuff if you aren't careful)
Not that doing that with any heat sink compound is good - but most are not highly conductive and you can just wipe it up and it isn't a ~huge~ deal, whereas stuff like Artic Silver (and I presume this liquid metal Terminator stuff) are very conductive and can cause problems if you aren't careful.
Corsair closed loops are good, I have used an old H70 for 3 years now to overclock my i72600k 4.5ghz and can keep things in the low 50c even with a crowded case.
The H75 is a good unit unless you think your case runs too hot and then you can go with the bigger radiator and push/pull fans H80i.
I have an H70 as well, it is less noisy than a standard fan and keep things cool for an acceptable price. No refills or other hydro crap either.
Only bad thing is that the cooler takes up some space, I have mine outside the case.
Mounting it took my 35 minutes or so though, you have to remove the regular heatsink holder from the motherboard.
Otherwise have Coolermaster some nice and cheap fans that will work as well.
Comments
There should be two, they are small skinny and L shaped so you cant plug them in wrong. One is for power, one sends information to the MB
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
I think I have 3 cables from my cabinet. The problem I have is where to put them:P
Plug them in the slots that fit.
The wider one with the yellow, black, red, black wires is for power. the other smaller one is the MB one.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Cabinst? If you mean the case then those are probably LED cable, like HDD and Power indicator lights, and other minor devices on the front of the case. These can have 1, 2, 3 or more wires on each connection. They may be single row connectors or 2 row connectors. If they are 2 row they may also have a filled in connector slot to prevent incorrect connection.
If that is so then each should be labeled with a 2 or 3 letter indication of what they are for. Since motherboards vary as to where those connections go you will need to read the MB manual to find out where and how to make those connections.
They look similar to these,
Left to right those are for the case speaker/beeper (not main speakers) Reset switch, Power switch, HDD indicator light and Power indicator light. You may have less or more connectors.
Also as you can see from the handy picture is that they are labeled and the MB usually is labeled too.
Brenics ~ Just to point out I do believe Chris Roberts is going down as the man who cheated backers and took down crowdfunding for gaming.
Op do yourself a favor and dont try to overclock your computer. If your already having trouble with overheating, and you cant hook the cables up properly your looking at a very very expensive lesson in overclocking.
Your i-7 is pretty good out of the gate, your games should run fine, your files should unzip pretty speedy, and if your converting files youll do great.
If you do eventually want to start overclocking go to an overclocking website and read everything about it, follow their directions and if anything breaks just realize it was totally avoidable.
Good luck on your current issue, i cant imagine a chip overheating at stock speeds with a stock cooler unless something was done wrong, even most included heatsinks can handle a small overclock.
Good luck though, im not trying to be critical of you and its great your asking questions and learning, but blowing out an expensive more or less top of the line chip when its not entirely necessary is a tough lesson to stomach.
Hehe, yea my main priority is not overclockling. Just getting my current system to run smooth.
Yes, the cables and MB is labled, but they dont match. I will try and look up a manual for the MB.
While you're at it try blocking off about half of the front ventilation and check the temperatures. With the entire front open there will be no real directed air flow through the system. You'll know in 10-15 minutes if things are a bit cooler.
I'd leave the bottom half clear myself.
I dont know
Coollaboratory Liquid PRO Thermal Interface Material
is very good. 4c is a good drop from basic thermal paste. IC diamond is also very good.
It also corrodes aluminum very quickly, which is what your heatspreader is probably made from.
Nickel plated copper is standard. Aluminum oxidizes so would make a poor heat spreader. All the heating up and cooling down would degrade it quickly.
Goes back as far as I can recall. I lapped my old Athlon 64 and it was nickel plated copper. Same with C2D/C2Q, A-X2.
You probably have an old processor around somewhere. just rub it on some fine sandpaper for a while.
I lap everything. makes a big difference in temperature.
Reminds me of this.
Or maybe this.
4C isn't bad, but unless your shooting to OC to the absolute limit and are extremely heat limited (and most people are not, they worry once they get up around 70C or are just using off the shelf air coolers), then why bother.
Great video, wish I read the disclaimer before I bought a happy fun ball.
You're probably right; I didn't look it up before posting that. But still, I'd be leery of spreading something around the system that is known to destroy aluminum and who knows what else.
I will say - despite corrosion or anything else... metal-based heatsink compound is difficult to work with. It tends to conduct electricity, and if any of it gets where it's not supposed to be - particulary if you put a touch too much on and it oozes out from between the heat spreader and heat sink and out into the ZIF socket - you've pretty much toasted the system. Of you get some on your fingers and touch something else on the motherboard (that paste is messy stuff if you aren't careful)
Not that doing that with any heat sink compound is good - but most are not highly conductive and you can just wipe it up and it isn't a ~huge~ deal, whereas stuff like Artic Silver (and I presume this liquid metal Terminator stuff) are very conductive and can cause problems if you aren't careful.
I have an H70 as well, it is less noisy than a standard fan and keep things cool for an acceptable price. No refills or other hydro crap either.
Only bad thing is that the cooler takes up some space, I have mine outside the case.
Mounting it took my 35 minutes or so though, you have to remove the regular heatsink holder from the motherboard.
Otherwise have Coolermaster some nice and cheap fans that will work as well.