Still not working correctly. So far I have reinstalled all the drivers for the MOBO. Moved the RAM around. Turned off power to everything not being used. In the event viewer I find the crash itself but I cannot see where it says what caused it. It doesn't create a crash log because the computer either reboots or freezes. Tomorrow I will remove the video card and run with onboard graphics and see what happens. CPU temp is fine because I have an alert setup to beep if it starts running hot. I do remember when windows first booted it said something about cannot read memory. But that never happened again and the memory test didn't find any problems.
Now there are a ton of different Warnings and Errors in the Event Viewer. But there is only 1 thing in the critical and thats the kernel power.
Personally i feel it is too many drivers loaded causing conflicts.I am a bit tired right now to think much but try removing the drivers in the add/remove one at a time.You can always click the update button to get the drivers updated again.
Even so,i am not so sure conflicts would actually cause your system to crash,that's why i posted the link to see if a driver is actually causing the system to crash.
If not a driver,then can be an outdated Bios or even corrupted files as well do a clean startup then run Trend Micro Housecall to check for any virus or other bad files.You could check online "google" to see if your motherboard has bios issues with your sound card/s.
Never forget 3 mile Island and never trust a government official or company spokesman.
The lists are always just partial and unless you get a really popular brand/model chances are it won't be there by virtue of sheer volume of choices. I wouldn't sweat the memory quite yet.
Are you on Win10/64? I checked the Gigabyte support page for your MB and It looks like there are no drivers newer than a year old. So chances are what came on your disk are the same - worth double-checking anyway.
Your next step should be to remove and then re-seat your graphics card and just do a manual check of all power connectors by removing and re-seating them.
"Social media gives legions of idiots the right to speak when they once only spoke at a bar after a glass of wine, without harming the community ... but now they have the same right to speak as a Nobel Prize winner. It's the invasion of the idiots”
― Umberto Eco
“Microtransactions? In a single player role-playing game? Are you nuts?” ― CD PROJEKT RED
I'm not trying to insult your intelligence or anything of the sort, but did you remember to apply thermal paste to your CPU cooler? Are you using any programs such as CCleaner or RealTemp temperature monitors to see what your temps are?
This exception code you provided (0x8000400000000002) is one of the same ones that Windows will throw if your machine shuts down due to overheating.
Its showing 59c in bios. I'll run realtemp to see what is the deal.
What CPU? That seems on the high side to me unless it's way overclocked.
I meant 49c. What i've been messing with is power consuption. I have turned off everything on the mobo that I'm not using. Its possible the power supply is just being overused and its causing the computer to reboot. Right now there has been zero crashes since I turned everything off. Waiting now to see if that fixed it. I should have an extra 100w out of my power supply but with everything on the entire board turned on idk maybe i calculated it wrong.
That is still way too high.
Temps in the BIOS are basically at idle conditions. Especially coming from a cold startup, you should be hovering right around ambient, maybe barely higher as reported in the BIOS, and not moving off from that (around 25-30C) until you get booted up and can put some load on the CPU.
I've seen a lot of reports where the 845's are running <50C fully loaded with the AMD Wraith cooler... so something isn't right there, and I'd suspect heat sink installation. Make sure you took the protective plastic piece off the heat sink, that the heat sink compound is properly applied and was adequately distributed, and that it's properly seated in the motherboard mounting with even mounting and full pressure on the heat spreader..
You ~should~ have more than enough power available in that power supply so long as you aren't overclocking anywhere.
That being said... not sure if this is the same model or not but...
At that price, sure this unit is failing but it was almost passing and lots of much more expensive power supplies can't get as close to passing as this unit did. That has to count for something! This may actually be the best ~$30 power supply sold currently.
yes. it will only rise about 15/ 20 more c under full load. and 69/79 c is pretty normal load temps. If you get better cooling you can defenintely drop it dwn to around 35c with 50c under load
Modern CPUs might put out 2 W at idle and 60 W under a gaming load. That makes quite a difference in temperatures. The days where a CPU had all cores running at max clock speeds and voltages at idle are long over.
That said, I'm not sure if it's able to properly idle everything while in the BIOS.
In one of the weirdest plot twists ever, I had the exact same crash about ten minutes ago while playing Overwatch at the end of a match. I haven't had a BSOD on this machine in well over a year, and I just had one with the exact same exception error. The only changes I've made recently was updating my Nvidia drivers to the most recent release.
Win 7 is 8 years old, it is not too much longer before Microsoft quits supporting it.
Win10 is much better than 7. Especially going forward, and especially (to the crowd on this website) for gaming.
Win 7 is the generational end of the XP OS. They can't do anything more than patch it.
Win10 will be the future if you want to do anything more than what is currently running. Me, I want to see better.
TO THE OP:
This may sound silly, but check your BIOS settings to make sure that it is assigning IRQ's automatically. For some reason there is a conflict with the sound drivers. This sounds like a type of problem that we used to see when we had to manually assign IRQ numbers.
There is also a possibility that a virus snuck in and is trying to commandeer your sound card. If so your only solution may be to reinstall the OS. Easy on Win10, you don't even need a disc. Honestly, if this is a new computer, I would reinstall anyway. You aren't losing much on a brand new install.
Start/settings/updates and security/recovery/reset this PC. Make sure you back up anything you have installed.
The world is going to the dogs, which is just how I planned it!
Still not working correctly. So far I have reinstalled all the drivers for the MOBO. Moved the RAM around. Turned off power to everything not being used. In the event viewer I find the crash itself but I cannot see where it says what caused it. It doesn't create a crash log because the computer either reboots or freezes. Tomorrow I will remove the video card and run with onboard graphics and see what happens. CPU temp is fine because I have an alert setup to beep if it starts running hot. I do remember when windows first booted it said something about cannot read memory. But that never happened again and the memory test didn't find any problems.
Now there are a ton of different Warnings and Errors in the Event Viewer. But there is only 1 thing in the critical and thats the kernel power.
Look at the cpu. Before reinserting, make sure there isn't anything damaged.
Kyleran: "Now there's the real trick, learning to accept and enjoy a game for what
it offers rather than pass on what might be a great playing experience
because it lacks a few features you prefer."
John Henry Newman: "A man would do nothing if he waited until he could do it so well that no one could find fault."
FreddyNoNose: "A good game needs no defense; a bad game has no defense." "Easily digested content is just as easily forgotten."
LacedOpium: "So the question that begs to be asked is, if you are not interested in
the game mechanics that define the MMORPG genre, then why are you
playing an MMORPG?"
Not exactly related but personally i would drop down the ram speed, specifically manually set the 1.5v voltage and manually set it at 1600Mhz in the bios just for the sake of stability. There's not really any difference between 1866Mhz and 1600Mhz.
If you feel confident dabbling in the bios, set the timings manually to 10-10-10-30 as well while @ 1600Mhz + 1.5v
Doublecheck with cpu-z what the default values are, and write them down, or take a picture with your phone or transfer a screenshot, just to be 100% sure and then manually enter everything in the bios.
Oh also unplug the front audio panel cable labeled hd audio/ac'97 from the header on the motherboard/audio card before everything is stable and working.
Also in the sound tab in windows under playback for speakers, right click a speaker and tick show disabled and show disconnected devices and then when the extra gpu hdmi audio devices show manually right click each one and disable them.]
I'll double check your motherboard, and write you out recommended order of setting/troubleshooting/installing everything.
yes. it will only rise about 15/ 20 more c under full load. and 69/79 c is pretty normal load temps. If you get better cooling you can defenintely drop it dwn to around 35c with 50c under load
Modern CPUs might put out 2 W at idle and 60 W under a gaming load. That makes quite a difference in temperatures. The days where a CPU had all cores running at max clock speeds and voltages at idle are long over.
That said, I'm not sure if it's able to properly idle everything while in the BIOS.
bios is what regulated the voltage. so yes, the reading in bios should be accurate to the temos of all components
TDP is TDP , there is no various wattage , just because a cpu unclocks itself from a higher rate at idles doesnt change the ammount of power that is being feed into the cpu
Heat output is equal to power used. It's conservation of energy. And yes, it varies wildly. Modern chips will vary the clock speed and voltage dynamically with the load, which has a huge impact on power consumption. They'll also power gate off parts of the chip when they're idle, and zero power flowing into a CPU core that is gated off has pretty much the effect on power consumption that you'd hope for.
TDP is Thermal Design Power, which is basically the manufacturer's promise that the part won't use more than this particular amount of power for thermally significant periods of time. That's a promise that if you can safely dissipate the TDP worth of heat indefinitely, you've got ample cooling for the part, at least at stock speeds.
For the most part, TDP is an arbitrary choice made by the manufacturer, not an engineering measurement. Most of the time, the chip vendors are pretty honest with their TDPs, as if you lie to make your parts look better and then parts fry, people get mad at you. The TDPs on Intel's Y-series CPUs and some of Nvidia's Fermi-based GPUs were pretty dubious, though.
A lower TDP does not automatically mean lower power usage, even if the TDP is honest. If two parts both have a 100 W TDP and will both use 100 W under extreme loads, it's entirely possible that one part uses 40 W under more typical loads and the other will use 80 W. If you compared Intel Haswell to AMD Kaveri, for example, you could get a 35 W laptop chip of each with honest TDPs, but Kaveri would tend to use a lot more power in the real world simply because Haswell was much better at saving power when idle.
Is everything at stock settings, or did you overclock anything? If the latter, then try reverting to stock settings. An unstable overclock could easily cause the sort of crashes you're seeing.
A simple way to check the memory is to remove one module at a time. Keep one module in the computer and remove the other and see if that fixes the crashing. Then put the second module back in and remove the first. If you have a bad memory module, it will work fine when the bad module is out of the system. I'm not saying to run with only 4 GB forever, but just as a test.
The one thing in your specs that strikes me as dubious is the white label hard drive. That basically means refurbished, and someone wanted to get rid of it in the first place because there was something wrong with it.
The one thing that stood out to me was this: "EVGA 430 W1 100-W1-0430-KR 80+ WHITE 430W Power Supply". How old is that PSU and it seems a bit weak on the power side.
Velika: City of Wheels: Among the mortal races, the humans were the only one that never built cities or great empires; a curse laid upon them by their creator, Gidd, forced them to wander as nomads for twenty centuries...
Well here we go, typed out the full comprehensive troubleshooting i do :
Part 1: Hardware & Bios
Before you start it would be beneficial if you can transfer/download the motherboard manual to your phone or at least take pictures of the important bios settings screens I'm going through the settings exactly as they appear in the manual.
First double check if cpu heatsink is properly on and there is paste underneath,double check that the gpu is seated properly in the first pci express slot and that everything except the front panel audio header (hd audio/ac'97) is connected on the motherboard. Then put the first ram stick in the 2nd slot from the cpu socket, adn then the second stick in the 4th slot from the cpu socket.
Go into bios and go to last tab and go load optimized defaults and let it restart and go into bios again.
Go to M.I.T(first tab) and into advanced frequency settings :
Leave everything on auto here except extreme memory profile set this to disabled. amd memory profile to disabled, and manually type in 1333Mhz for Memory Frequency(Mhz).
then go into advanced cpu core settings submenu and If you dont need/use hibernation/advanced power saving set C6 mode to disabled.
Go back to M.I.T, go into advanced memory settings leave extreme memory profile to disabled and multiplier to auto and frequency to 1333mhz. Double check if the manually set ddr voltage to 1.50v ( don't worry if u can't set it here, it's possible that it can be changed from the voltage sub menu after these settings).
Set memory timing mode to advanced manual and go into channel A memory sub timings and change the CAS latency/tRCD/tRP/tRAS to 10-10-10-30 like in the previous post(they should be just the first 4 under standard timing control. (Cas# Latency (CL),RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) ,RAS# Precharge (tRP) ,Cycle Time (tRAS)). Do this for channel B sub timings as well.
Go back to M.I.T and go to Advanced voltage settings and set dram voltage to 1.5v and leave everything else to auto.
Go back to M.I.T and go to miscellaneous and set pcie slot configuration to gen3, 3dmark leave as disabled.
Under bios features tab only change full screen logo to disabled this moment.
On the peripherals tab leave everything at default/auto values for now and go into the gfx configuration sub menu. Double check that primary video device is NB pcie slot video, and then set integrated graphics to disabled.
Go back to peripherals and go to sata configuration and leave everything at default except serial port A, change that to disabled.
This is everything for bios (The basic idea is check everything with hardware, fire up the motherboard manual and go setting by setting).
Install win 10 as you would normally, and after it's finished and its time to install drivers do the following in this order (unfortunately due to numerous problems with win 10 and wireless cards and realtek drivers you have to do it in this roundabout way. The other usual way i do this only works if all standalone drivers work without problems).
Don't forget to backup all your data and files before reinstalling win 10 !
1. Install the chipset drivers labeled (AMD Chipset Driver) first, then restart pc when they finish. 2. Install asmedia usb 3.1 driver for amd and restart pc when it finishes. 3. Go to Control Panel -> Power Options -> Change Plan settings -> Change advanced power settings -> Wireless adapter settings -> Power Saving mode. And Make sure it is set to Maximum Power. 4. Install realtek lan driver and run the windows update (let the stupid thing download and update everything, and if it is for some reason stuck at anniversary update 1607, for a very long time, just restart the pc, there's a huge problem with wireless cards and anniversary update, ...). 5. Go to Control Panel Power Saving mode and Make sure it is set to Maximum Power again.
6. If for some reason you have internet problems do the following :
In the search box next to start, type command prompt, press and hold (or right-click) command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
At the command prompt, run the following commands in the listed order, and then check to see if that fixes your connection problem:
Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
Hopefully by now, windows 10 has done its thing and fully updated your pc, or at least it did everything up to anniversary update (if you had to interrupt it by restarting due to it being stuck due to the wireless card).
7. Most important step : right click start button, go to control panel, go to system and click advanced system properties, open system properties go to hardware tab, click device installation settings and choose no and save changes.
8. Go to windows uninstaller from control panel or just typing uninstall a program in search, and uninstall any nvidia drivers and restart into safe mode(easiest way to do this is after the drivers are finished uninstalling with the windows uninstaller, dont restart your pc but do next step immediatly.
9.run DDU(Display Driver Uninstaller) and under launch options choose safe mode (recommended) and launch, wait until you are in safe mode, then choose uninstall/delete and restart option, wait until it finishes, when you're back in normal mode, install nvidia gpu drivers and restart pc again when they finish. Go to sound settings, playback(speaker) right click a speaker and tick show disabled and show disconnected devices and then when the extra gpu hdmi audio devices show manually right click each one and disable them.
10. Now for sound, go to device manager searching for it with cortana/win search, or searching for it/finding it in the control panel or by right clicking my computer.
Find sound drivers, and uninstall them(if the stupid windows is only showing rollback depending on update version do that), don't restart immediately, go to programs and features in control panel again and uninstall any sound drivers if there are any there. Then restart pc, let windows 10 do the basic driver setup, and then manually install realtek hd audio driver from the the motherboard support website.
There are a few more tweaks, like advanced deletion of pre-installed programs, page file tweak for when you have 16GB+ ram, and ssd tweaks to make the ssd lifespan longer that i haven't mentioned here.
Also you can just click no to every little setting win 10 asks you after install before you get to desktop, and you can go step by step through every option in the new settings (not control panel) and disable all the silly stuff that's enabled by default if you want, but this is the basic full setup that's a good start point for a new installation.
Comments
Now there are a ton of different Warnings and Errors in the Event Viewer. But there is only 1 thing in the critical and thats the kernel power.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128763 MOBO Gigabyte
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113411 CPU AMD x4 845
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156035 Memory Ballistix 2x4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704040 WIFI PCI
EVGA 430 W1 100-W1-0430-KR 80+ WHITE 430W Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125920&cm_re=gtx_1050-_-14-125-920-_-Product GTX 1050 graphics card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5AD3T02857 SATA HDD
Hope this helps.
http://www.speedguide.net/faq/how-to-determine-which-driver-causes-windows-to-222
Personally i feel it is too many drivers loaded causing conflicts.I am a bit tired right now to think much but try removing the drivers in the add/remove one at a time.You can always click the update button to get the drivers updated again.
Even so,i am not so sure conflicts would actually cause your system to crash,that's why i posted the link to see if a driver is actually causing the system to crash.
If not a driver,then can be an outdated Bios or even corrupted files as well do a clean startup then run Trend Micro Housecall to check for any virus or other bad files.You could check online "google" to see if your motherboard has bios issues with your sound card/s.
Never forget 3 mile Island and never trust a government official or company spokesman.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5262&dl=1&RWD=0#memory support list
I didn't realize memory had lists nowadays.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156035
Are you on Win10/64? I checked the Gigabyte support page for your MB and It looks like there are no drivers newer than a year old. So chances are what came on your disk are the same - worth double-checking anyway.
Your next step should be to remove and then re-seat your graphics card and just do a manual check of all power connectors by removing and re-seating them.
“Microtransactions? In a single player role-playing game? Are you nuts?”
― CD PROJEKT RED
Temps in the BIOS are basically at idle conditions. Especially coming from a cold startup, you should be hovering right around ambient, maybe barely higher as reported in the BIOS, and not moving off from that (around 25-30C) until you get booted up and can put some load on the CPU.
I've seen a lot of reports where the 845's are running <50C fully loaded with the AMD Wraith cooler... so something isn't right there, and I'd suspect heat sink installation. Make sure you took the protective plastic piece off the heat sink, that the heat sink compound is properly applied and was adequately distributed, and that it's properly seated in the motherboard mounting with even mounting and full pressure on the heat spreader..
That being said... not sure if this is the same model or not but...
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/02/19/evga_430w_power_supply_review/9
That said, I'm not sure if it's able to properly idle everything while in the BIOS.
Win10 is much better than 7. Especially going forward, and especially (to the crowd on this website) for gaming.
Win 7 is the generational end of the XP OS. They can't do anything more than patch it.
Win10 will be the future if you want to do anything more than what is currently running. Me, I want to see better.
TO THE OP:
This may sound silly, but check your BIOS settings to make sure that it is assigning IRQ's automatically. For some reason there is a conflict with the sound drivers. This sounds like a type of problem that we used to see when we had to manually assign IRQ numbers.
There is also a possibility that a virus snuck in and is trying to commandeer your sound card. If so your only solution may be to reinstall the OS. Easy on Win10, you don't even need a disc. Honestly, if this is a new computer, I would reinstall anyway. You aren't losing much on a brand new install.
Start/settings/updates and security/recovery/reset this PC. Make sure you back up anything you have installed.
The world is going to the dogs, which is just how I planned it!
Look at the cpu. Before reinserting, make sure there isn't anything damaged.
Epic Music: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAigCvelkhQ&list=PLo9FRw1AkDuQLEz7Gvvaz3ideB2NpFtT1
https://archive.org/details/softwarelibrary_msdos?&sort=-downloads&page=1
Kyleran: "Now there's the real trick, learning to accept and enjoy a game for what it offers rather than pass on what might be a great playing experience because it lacks a few features you prefer."
John Henry Newman: "A man would do nothing if he waited until he could do it so well that no one could find fault."
FreddyNoNose: "A good game needs no defense; a bad game has no defense." "Easily digested content is just as easily forgotten."
LacedOpium: "So the question that begs to be asked is, if you are not interested in the game mechanics that define the MMORPG genre, then why are you playing an MMORPG?"
If you feel confident dabbling in the bios, set the timings manually to 10-10-10-30 as well while @ 1600Mhz + 1.5v
Cas# Latency (CL) - 10
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) - 10
RAS# Precharge (tRP) - 10
Cycle Time (tRAS) - 30
Doublecheck with cpu-z what the default values are, and write them down, or take a picture with your phone or transfer a screenshot, just to be 100% sure and then manually enter everything in the bios.
Oh also unplug the front audio panel cable labeled hd audio/ac'97 from the header on the motherboard/audio card before everything is stable and working.
Also in the sound tab in windows under playback for speakers, right click a speaker and tick show disabled and show disconnected devices and then when the extra gpu hdmi audio devices show manually right click each one and disable them.]
I'll double check your motherboard, and write you out recommended order of setting/troubleshooting/installing everything.
TDP is Thermal Design Power, which is basically the manufacturer's promise that the part won't use more than this particular amount of power for thermally significant periods of time. That's a promise that if you can safely dissipate the TDP worth of heat indefinitely, you've got ample cooling for the part, at least at stock speeds.
For the most part, TDP is an arbitrary choice made by the manufacturer, not an engineering measurement. Most of the time, the chip vendors are pretty honest with their TDPs, as if you lie to make your parts look better and then parts fry, people get mad at you. The TDPs on Intel's Y-series CPUs and some of Nvidia's Fermi-based GPUs were pretty dubious, though.
A lower TDP does not automatically mean lower power usage, even if the TDP is honest. If two parts both have a 100 W TDP and will both use 100 W under extreme loads, it's entirely possible that one part uses 40 W under more typical loads and the other will use 80 W. If you compared Intel Haswell to AMD Kaveri, for example, you could get a 35 W laptop chip of each with honest TDPs, but Kaveri would tend to use a lot more power in the real world simply because Haswell was much better at saving power when idle.
A simple way to check the memory is to remove one module at a time. Keep one module in the computer and remove the other and see if that fixes the crashing. Then put the second module back in and remove the first. If you have a bad memory module, it will work fine when the bad module is out of the system. I'm not saying to run with only 4 GB forever, but just as a test.
The one thing in your specs that strikes me as dubious is the white label hard drive. That basically means refurbished, and someone wanted to get rid of it in the first place because there was something wrong with it.
Velika: City of Wheels: Among the mortal races, the humans were the only one that never built cities or great empires; a curse laid upon them by their creator, Gidd, forced them to wander as nomads for twenty centuries...
Part 1: Hardware & Bios
First double check if cpu heatsink is properly on and there is paste underneath,double check that the gpu is seated properly in the first pci express slot and that everything except the front panel audio header (hd audio/ac'97) is connected on the motherboard. Then put the first ram stick in the 2nd slot from the cpu socket, adn then the second stick in the 4th slot from the cpu socket.
On the peripherals tab leave everything at default/auto values for now and go into the gfx configuration sub menu.
Double check that primary video device is NB pcie slot video, and then set integrated graphics to disabled.
Don't forget to backup all your data and files before reinstalling win 10 !
links :
for the the drivers :
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5715#driver
for the manual :
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5715#manual
and don't use anything from the utilities tab as almost none of it is needed, but may cause conflicts.
1. Install the chipset drivers labeled (AMD Chipset Driver) first, then restart pc when they finish.
2. Install asmedia usb 3.1 driver for amd and restart pc when it finishes.
3. Go to Control Panel -> Power Options -> Change Plan settings -> Change advanced power settings -> Wireless adapter settings -> Power Saving mode. And Make sure it is set to Maximum Power.
4. Install realtek lan driver and run the windows update (let the stupid thing download and update everything, and if it is for some reason stuck at anniversary update 1607, for a very long time, just restart the pc, there's a huge problem with wireless cards and anniversary update, ...).
5. Go to Control Panel Power Saving mode and Make sure it is set to Maximum Power again.
6. If for some reason you have internet problems do the following :
Hopefully by now, windows 10 has done its thing and fully updated your pc, or at least it did everything up to anniversary update (if you had to interrupt it by restarting due to it being stuck due to the wireless card).
7. Most important step : right click start button, go to control panel, go to system and click advanced system properties, open system properties go to hardware tab, click device installation settings and choose no and save changes.
8. Go to windows uninstaller from control panel or just typing uninstall a program in search, and uninstall any nvidia drivers and restart into safe mode(easiest way to do this is after the drivers are finished uninstalling with the windows uninstaller, dont restart your pc but do next step immediatly.
Go to sound settings, playback(speaker) right click a speaker and tick show disabled and show disconnected devices and then when the extra gpu hdmi audio devices show manually right click each one and disable them.
10. Now for sound, go to device manager searching for it with cortana/win search, or searching for it/finding it in the control panel or by right clicking my computer.
11. turn of xbox dvr so it doesn't conflict with shadowplay and other software and cause you unexplainable fps drops and broken fps monitoring/overlays:
https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=6239-DZCB-8600
12. go through tweaks on this http://windows.wonderhowto.com/how-to/everything-you-need-disable-windows-10-0163552/ (you don't have to do all of them Disable Bandwidth Sharing for Updates is the only one that's really important.
13. 8. disable and convert cortana to simple search if you don't want the full cortana experience:
https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/software/cortana_removal_guide/3
There are a few more tweaks, like advanced deletion of pre-installed programs, page file tweak for when you have 16GB+ ram, and ssd tweaks to make the ssd lifespan longer that i haven't mentioned here.
Also you can just click no to every little setting win 10 asks you after install before you get to desktop, and you can go step by step through every option in the new settings (not control panel) and disable all the silly stuff that's enabled by default if you want, but this is the basic full setup that's a good start point for a new installation.