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need help building a new computer from a 2005 to something more recentish
squallypew
Member Posts: 50
in Hardware
okay my budget max is 280 bucks lets say 300 max but thats me being lucky, im only looking to get motherboard, cpu processor, memory ram and a graphic card, im hoping that the processor comes with the fan thing lel, im gonna buy the parts from amazon so ive been looking around i have no chance at all to get i3.i5,i7 cores so that leaves me with a possibility of a core 2 quad MAYBE if not something else im guessing, im not sure about motherboards i already looked around for the ram price would be around 60 ish or soemthing depending if i get a 8gb or 4gb , and well with the graphic card im willing to spend max 60 or so, i love nvidia so thats my option to go, i dont like amd stuff just to clarify that already, i hope you guys can help me up with this and luckly we will get a jackpot 
i really need an upgrade but i need you guys advice!.
i really need an upgrade but i need you guys advice!. 
Comments
Try buying something like Radeon R7 260 graphic card, AMD FX 6300 processor, 4GB of RAM (2x 2GB modules) and some cheap motherboard that allows adding another 2 RAM modules later to increase ram to 8GB if you want. You might be able to get them at around 300$.
Alternatively wait for Quizzical or Ridelynn to answer this thread, they know more about computers than I and can give better advice.
Have you made sure that your old power supply, case and hard disk will fit in with the new computer. If the power supply was good enough, then you could still keep using it to save money, but if you bought something as cheap as possible 10 years ago then it's likely nearing the end of its life anyway and should be replaced because a power supply can damage the rest of the system when it breaks. With the case, most important thing is what sized motherboard it can hold. Can you use ATX motherboard, or do you need something smaller. If the hard disk is SATA then you can plug it to a new computer.
If your Windows is OEM version then it won't likely work after you switch your motherboard and you'll need a new Windows license.
EDIT: Sorry, I missed that you don't like AMD stuff when writing this and ended up writing AMD recommendations /EDIT
First, exactly what parts do you already have that you're hoping to reuse? If you're starting with a computer built in 2005, I wouldn't expect anything to still be useful in a new computer today, with the possible exceptions of the optical drive and case.
Second, if you're trying to build a gaming rig on that budget, you're going AMD and using integrated graphics. Neither Intel nor Nvidia is a serious option, as you'd have to cut so many corners as to get a rig that is obviously stupid. In particular, a $60 budget for a discrete Nvidia video card will not get you something competitive with the integrated graphics that come "free" with an AMD APU.
i have hard drive, dvd player , power suply the power suply is from the old computer but this got replaced a few years ago so its not that old, i might need to get the case but thats not really a problem, i was looking at some video cars at amazon and some newish models seems to be okay in price that swhy i stated the 60 ish price , it doesnt have to be end video card but something nice and acceptable for the price of course i want something thats gonna last a few years from now for obvious reasons i know that i cant aim for a better computer but i assume i could get something good with that kind of money, you make it sound i cant
sure i cant get a better cpu but then what can i get? i know amd is not exactly good and it can overheat alot as well that might be just me though im not really an expert in this stuff but ive had amd experiences in the past.
links of the items ive seen so far im not sure if they are correct to combine but you be the judge:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-G41MT-S2PT-Micro-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B005OJRGYA/ref=pd_sim_pc_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VGA9MK0W7ANM6ZS0K61
http://www.amazon.com/PNY-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics-VCGGT7301D5LXPB/dp/B00KYCTCZ8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1422813177&sr=1-5
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Processor-2-83GHz-1333MHz-LGA775/dp/B0059E05FM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1422801232&sr=1-1
Exactly what power supply do you have? If you bought a nice power supply a few years ago, you could reuse it, but you don't strike me as the sort of person to shell out for a nice power supply. And if it's a piece of junk, it should be replaced.
A ten year old hard drive is already living on borrowed time and needs to be replaced. Don't try to run a hard drive until it dies, as losing all of your data is a much bigger problem than just having to buy a replacement part and pop it in.
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You're looking at the wrong platform entirely. You'd be much better off getting this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113359
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128763
and then using the integrated graphics there. That would give you much better CPU performance, would commonly give you better GPU performance, and would get you a modern platform that you could upgrade in the future as needed. And it would do all of that for considerably less than what you're looking at.
Furthermore, since you'll probably need to cut down the budget to make room for other things you need, it gives you an easy way to save money on the APU by getting this instead:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113371
That's still a faster CPU than what you're looking at, even if it's slower on the GPU side. But upgrading from a ten year old computer, nearly anything modern will seem amazing. And it saves you about $100, which is vital on your extremely tight budget.
You're still going to need memory, storage, likely a power supply and case, and an OS license. That's probably going to push you over budget.
For the optical drive, if it can handle DVDs and is SATA, you're fine. The way to tell is to check the width of the cable connecting the drive to the motherboard. If it's about two inches across, it's IDE and probably won't fit most motherboards. If it's about half an inch across, it's SATA and you're set.
Exactly what power supply do you have? Just saying that you have a power supply doesn't really mean anything. Some power supplies are basically a fire hazard with no value as anything more than a doorstop. If you don't know what power supply you have, then open up the case and read the label. Find the exact brand name and model.
For the OS license, Linux is free, but will mean you can't play most games. A ten year old computer is probably running Windows XP, which has support discontinued and is definitely not what you want, so you're going to need a new OS.
As far as the OS goes - you can get the Windows 10 developer preview for free right now. It won't be exactly stable, but Free Windows is Free Windows. You will need a working PC to download and burn the ISO - so I'd snag it before you cannabilize the existing rig; although, I highly recommend selling your computer as a working unit - you could probably get $100 out of it working, and that more than offsets the price of what you would be able to salvage out of it. That extra money would go a long way on your budget.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/preview-iso
You will have to pay for it once it's finally released in the fall, but that is then and this is now.
Even if a ten year old hard drive still works, I'd replace it on general principle. If a video card dies, you replace the video card and carry on. Same with a memory module. So you can run those parts until they die and it's not a problem.
But if a hard drive dies, then at minimum, you have to reinstall everything. If you're not better at backing up than most people, you also lose a lot of irreplaceable data that you really don't want to use. The money to buy a new hard drive is often only a small fraction of the real damage done by a hard drive failure.
Furthermore, so long as you need a new drive anyway, you could consider getting an SSD. A ten year old computer probably doesn't have a lot of storage space, and if you don't need that much storage space, then going with an SSD over a hard drive is an easy decision. I usually recommend something in the ballpark of 240 GB:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820178720
If that's too expensive, you can get something half the size for cheaper:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820721107
In both cases, you need to scroll down to find the list of sellers to get the proper price of $90 for the first and $57 for the second.
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For memory, what I'd probably do is to get this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231665
and then clock it at 2133 MHz rather than 2400 MHz and see if it's stable at 1.5 V. You do want a lot of memory bandwidth to feed integrated graphics, even if your memory clock speed doesn't matter much when you're using a discrete video card. Furthermore, while 4 GB is enough for most people right now, if the GPU takes 1 or 2 GB of that as video memory, what you're left with is definitely not enough. But that's easily fixable plus some room for futureproofing by buying 8 GB now.
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For a video card, my basic recommendation is, don't buy a discrete video card unless it's considerably better than integrated graphics. The cheapest new card that you can really justify is probably something like one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121898
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127784
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500348
But none of those fit your budget well, and you're probably going to need to replace hardware that you weren't planning on replacing, which is why I say to go with integrated graphics. Though if you do decide to spend more than you seem to have anticipated and get a decent discrete video card, you can save a little money on the CPU by giving up integrated graphics and getting this instead:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113348
what i think im gonna get from what you suggested so far with a mix of changes:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128763
http://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-240-Pin-Desktop-Memory-F3-1600C9S-4GAB/dp/B00HGII9XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422819703&sr=8-1&keywords=G.SKILL+Ares+Series
dont know if that works?
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-A10-Series-APU-A10-7850K-AD785KXBJABOX/dp/B00H7Z7YMI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422819892&sr=8-1&keywords=AMD+A10-7850K+Kaveri+12+Compute+Cores+(4+CPU+++8+GPU)+3.7GHz+Socket+FM2++95W+Desktop+Processor+AMD+Radeon+R7+series+AD785KXBJABOX
i know you are right on the hard drive and i will get it but thats off the budget right now.
it would make a total of $255.76
would you say a integrated graphic such as the one that the cpu has its good enough to justify the ram and video card graph?
i do like the cut of price though and that cpu seems to be worthy, thank you for your time-
You can get a ballpark idea of the performance of a GPU from the number of shaders (Nvidia calls them "CUDA cores" and AMD calls them "stream processors", but they're basically the same thing). The integrated graphics in the A10-7850K has 512. The Radeon R7 260X has 896. The GeForce GTX 750 Ti has 640. The GeForce GTX 730 that you were looking at earlier has 384. The number of shaders is an imperfect metric, as some are clocked higher than others (integrated graphics will tend to be clocked a little lower) and there are other pieces that matter, but it's a ballpark approximation.
But you definitely need two memory modules, not one. And if you're using integrated graphics, you need the memory clocked high. That's why I picked out memory rated at 2400 MHz and with a two module kit totaling 8 GB. That it was G.Skill Ares memory as opposed to something else isn't important.
And I still want to know what case you have and what power supply. You don't want to buy a bunch of new parts only to promptly fry them with a bad power supply. If you don't know what power supply you have, open up the case and read the label. Come back and report, rather than trying to figure out for yourself if it's any good.
this is my current power supply, and forget about the graphic card i dont think its worth for my budget to spend on it, considering the cpu im gonna get it should be fine for me , is it really mandatory to get the 8gb ram though? can i work fine with 4gb for now ?
model : ax 500.n item : pw 610s
If you try to go with just 4 GB of memory, you'll cut your performance by nearly half in a lot of games because leaving a memory channel vacant cuts your memory bandwidth in half. And by more than that in others because you'll be running out of memory, with only 4 GB total between normal system memory and the portion set aside for video memory. So you really should get 8 GB now. If you need to save money, do it by getting the A8-7600 APU that I linked, not going with just 4 GB of memory.
And you really should get a new power supply. I found a picture of what you have here:
http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ve/MLV-433369149-fuente-de-poder-atx-vs-20-model-ax500n-_JM
Knowing it's an Achieve AX 500.n made it possible to do a better search, which found this:
http://power-supplies.blogspot.com/2005/06/achieve-ax500n-power-supplies-internal.html
So basically, the power supply wasn't very good in 2005. And even if the writer had justifiably gushed about how awesome it was, awesome in 2005 would be mediocre today. The power supply is definitely a relic of another era, built to deliver nearly as much power on the +5 V rail as on the +12 V rail. It's a "500 W" power supply that can only deliver 300 W on the +12 V rail--which is what is used by nearly everything in the system.
If you upgraded the rest of the computer and kept the old power supply, there's actually a good chance that it would work fine, just because going with integrated graphics keeps power so low. But there's also a substantial chance that it would cause trouble, such as by frying your new hardware, or worse, slowly damaging it so that you get weird malfunctions and never do figure out that the power supply is the real culprit until you give up and throw the whole thing in the garbage to start over. Even if it works right at first, trying to upgrade later by adding a discrete video card (which you can do in a year or two if you decide you need more graphics performance) would run a high risk of damaging things.
Getting a modern power supply that is very nice doesn't have to cost a fortune. For example:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182066
Even getting one that is okay but not great--and at least built for modern computer needs rather than focusing on the wrong voltage entirely--can be downright cheap if you consider rebates to be free:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
But I'd really recommend fitting the Rosewill Capstone into your budget. Don't just look around and buy something random that seems cheap; a lot of power supplies are junk, especially among cheap ones. As I said earlier, if you need to save money, do it by getting the A8-7600 for $90 instead of the A10-7850K. Better to give up 1/4 of your performance and get something that still works well than to fry things by trying to reuse obsolete parts.
One of the reasons I'm pushing the A8-7600 today is the possibility of future upgrades. If you get the A10-7850K, there are two advantages you get: higher CPU clock speed and more GPU compute units. They're the same chip, but the A8-7600 disables 1/4 of the GPU.
But if you decide it's not fast enough, then in a year or three when you have more money, you can buy a new video card for $100-$200 or so, drop it in, and have a nice GPU then together with a still decent processor. If you do make that upgrade, then the difference in integrated graphics will no longer matter because you'll no longer be using the integrated graphics. The difference in CPU performance will also diminish, as without having to set aside power headroom for the integrated graphics, the CPU on the A8-7600 will be able to turbo up to 3.8 GHz whenever it matters. That's still not as fast as the 4 GHz turbo speed on the A10-7850K, but the difference between 3.8 GHz and 4 GHz is what it sounds like: only 5%.
I found this thread:
http://www.mmorpg.com/discussion2.cfm/post/6536181#6536181
If that's your old computer, you're going to love the new one. The GPU in the A8-7600 has 384 shaders. The GPU in the A10-7850K has 512 shaders. Your old GeForce 6600 LE has 7. Not 70 or 700. Seven. As in, fewer than eight. So that's a huge jump. The new CPU has four cores while your old one has one core, and the new cores are also more than twice as fast as the core in your old CPU. So I don't think you're going to need another upgrade anytime soon.
How are you going to tell the person to buy parts, though? Prices change pretty fast, so if you pick parts now to fit a $300 budget, those same parts might be $350 a week later--but different parts that are just as good will still be available for $300. If he has to buy parts in person rather than online, parts that you could get for $300 online might cost $400 to buy anywhere in person. Or considerably more if you go to the wrong place to buy parts.
the person that lives in usa is my uncle so no problem im gonna keep contact with him, hes gonna buy it online for me, im aiming for the a10-7850k btw im already dreaming with this new computer hahah cant wait to do streams and what not! also for my youtube baking channel
the power supply im gonna have to get it myself but i already have an idea so im gonna look for it locally, same for the hard drive, so the budget goes for cpu, ram and motherboard only .
I would advise against trying to find a power supply locally. It's harder to pick a quality power supply than any other component. If you go to a local shop, it's likely that many or most of the units they have are junk and no better than what you have now, and you won't have any way to tell what is good.
A hard drive, on the other hand, is completely fine to look for locally. You want something made by Western Digital, Seagate, or HGST (formerly Hitachi's hard drive division, now owned by Western Digital). You want it to be rated at 7200 RPM. And you want it to be SATA 3 (aka SATA 6 Gb/s, not SATA 3 Gb/s). That last thing is just to make sure that you don't find something ancient that was discontinued years ago. That will probably describe a majority of the hard drives you find. And among hard drives that fit that description, you can buy the cheapest one that has enough capacity for you.
so i was doing some research locally threw some websites i found something:
http://cypstore.net/product/sata-seagate-500-gb/
that is a hd of 500gb and i think it says 7200 as you were suggesting idk if the price is right to the ammount of gb of it but its what i found its seagate as well.
and i also found a power supply i want you to give it a check:
http://cypstore.net/product/cm-extreme-475w/
and i found a case :
http://cypstore.net/product/cm-tc-101b-500w/
i dont know if this works with that power supply i linked if not i found other power supply.
http://cypstore.net/product/fuente-atx-1200w/
http://cypstore.net/product/fuente-atx-550w/
that one looks like it might not be the right onw though so yeah either way posting it just in case.
The hard drive model is about three years old, which isn't completely ideal, but it will work fine. That's not a bad price on it, either, assuming it's in US dollars, so go ahead and get it. Hard drive performance doesn't get that much better as time passes; if it were a decade old, I'd say to skip it, but three years is fine.
The power supplies you link are junk, though. The first one, the Cooler Master Extreme 2 475, is a piece of junk. The box pointedly avoids putting a "W" after the 475 so that Cooler Master can claim that the 475 is a model number, not a wattage, and try to avoid getting sued for fraud. Here's a review of it:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Extreme-2-475-W-Power-Supply-Review/1550/11
Basically, it runs out of spec in several ways (which can kill other hardware) and then dies. And that's when it's brand new; power supplies tend to get worse as they age. Hardware Secrets is pretty generous with their power supply reviews, too, as they're focused on helping people find something good for cheap--exactly what you need. For Hardware Secrets to give a power supply a golden award and Hard OCP (which is more demanding) to rate it a "fail" isn't necessarily contradictory information, even. The power supply probably is better than what you have now, but it's pretty bad.
The last two that you link are even worse. A "1200 W" power supply with only two SATA connectors? Seriously? And for $40? A 1200 W power supply for substantially less than $200 makes me suspicious. No way that you're going to find a decent one for $40. Similarly on a 550 W power supply for $20. Those are likely worse than what you have now.
The only kind of okay power supply that I could find on that site is this one:
http://cypstore.net/product/corsair-750w-80p/
And if that's US dollars, the price is completely ridiculous for just kind of okay quality. You can get a lower wattage version of the same thing (meaning for your purposes, just as good) for $40--or $20 after rebate--as I linked from New Egg above. And the Rosewill Capstone will be vastly better yet.
The case you linked is probably junk. It looks like it includes a power supply as well, for only $45. Decent cases or power supplies start around that price tag, and to have both together for that price means both components are probably junk. If you added fans, the case might be all right for your needs, or it might not. And if you have to buy fans separately, you end up paying about as much as it would cost to get this:
http://cypstore.net/product/cm-n300/
Much better, and comes with two fans. If you get a case without fans and don't buy fans to add to it, you have no airflow at all, and that's overheating problems waiting to happen. Computer cases are big and heavy, which makes them expensive to ship, so buying one locally makes sense.
The Cooler Master N300 that I linked is basically intended to be a cheap case that will reasonably support a nice gaming rig. That's pretty much exactly what you need. There are much nicer cases if you're willing to spend a lot more money, but that's unnecessary for your needs and it doesn't make sense to buy a $100 case on your budget.
You seem to want the A10-7850K rather than the A8-7600 because it's faster. An intermediate option is to get the A10-7800. That's the same chip, and leaves the entire thing enabled. Graphics performance will be exactly the same between the A10-7800 and the A10-7850K. The former clocks the CPU slightly lower (3.5-3.9 GHz rather than 3.7-4.0 GHz), but it is meaningfully cheaper:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113372
Or you could get a combo deal with memory, since you need that, too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.2160511
Then you can add the motherboard linked yesterday and the Corsair CX430 power supply from yesterday and it comes to almost exactly $300 total.
The other difference between the A10-7850K and the A10-7800 is that the former lets you overclock and the latter doesn't. But you need to overbuild some other components in order to be able to safely handle the additional heat and power of overclocking, and you're not going to do that, so you shouldn't overclock, anyway.
btw i think i might go with the combo as you suggested it doesnt seem to be much difference with the cpu speed anwyays.
i foudn this psu i dont know if its good and the price is right :
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Stallion-Supply-ATX12V-RD500-2DB/dp/B004GL9NVG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422897775&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Rosewill+Slientnight-500+500W+fanless+power+supply
and if that power supply will work with the case you suggested from the site i gave you.
i gotta save much money as i can i was aiming to not pass the 280 but i guess its not possible.
btw is it possible for you to give me an alternative motherboard just incase something happens and i cant find the one you suggested, and if its around the same price range it would be awesome, i cant aim higher, if theres no other way then i guess i better get the one you said no matter what lel.
i hope you can reply me today Quizzical , im gonna send my uncle the links today so he can start doing the process of buying hopefully right away although knowing him he might take its time, but either way tis best to already have what i have decided to get for sure :
im definitly getting the combo of the cpu + mem ram, that motherboard you suggested days ago which i like and i hope i can find it, and well im still with the doubt of which power supply i should get, i was reading in a thread on this forum about that corsair brand and if i got it right you guys said that is not that good , i added a link the last time of that Rosewill Stallion Series 500W Power Supply ATX12V 500 Power Supply RD500-2DB but i need your aprove of it. , have a good day and thank you for all your time invested in this thread.
Don't get the Rosewill Stallion. It's very old, and probably wasn't very good even when it was new. I've never seen a decent power supply that felt the need to include multiple fans. Usually that's a result of extremely bad power efficiency, which causes the power supply to waste a ton of power and put out a lot of heat, so it needs more airflow to keep it from frying.
It's hard to pick a good power supply, as many (most?) of the power supplies out there are basically junk, but never get sent to a reputable review site, so you don't find out for certain that they're junk. Sometimes exactly the same bad power supply is marketed under a zillion different names so that even if you find out that one version of it is junk, you don't know that exactly the same thing with different packaging and a different brand name is also junk. It takes a lot of reading to have a good idea of which power supplies are good and which aren't.
You presumably found my recent thread about Corsair's CX series power supplies not being very good. But it's important to understand that power supply quality is a relative thing, and Corsair's CX series is much better than most of the other power supplies that you've been looking at. If you want a quick introduction, this is a really good article:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3985/three-550w-psus-for-different-prices
Basically, what you have now and a lot of the power supplies you've been looking at are probably about on par with the Techsolo unit there. Corsair's CX series is probably closest to the OCZ Fatality in that review, though my guess is that the OCZ Fatality is a little better. The Rosewill Capstone that I linked is probably better than the Antec TruePower New from that review.
I'm not saying that Rosewill in general is good. Some of their power supplies are merely okay and some are quite bad. It's not the brand name that matters; it's the particular model that you get. Some of Rosewill's power supplies are quite good, including the Capstone, Lightning, Tachyon, and Fortress. But some aren't, such as the Stallion that you found.
One general rule is that if a power supply isn't 80 PLUS certified, then it's junk and you don't want it. Just being 80 PLUS certified doesn't automatically mean it's good, even at higher levels (gold or platinum) of certification. But the restrictions to get 80 PLUS certification aren't very high, and a power supply that can't even meet those minimal standards is nearly guaranteed to be awful.
If you've got a $1000 budget and can afford all nice parts, then you want and can readily afford something good. But you're on a tighter budget, and it's okay to get something that is merely okay and not that good. The difference between okay and really good is considerably smaller than the difference between okay and junk. And really awful junk is what you need to avoid. And an okay power supply that you'll never even pull 100 W from (and if you get the A10-7800, your system likely never draws 100 W from the power supply) isn't nearly the risk of getting an okay power supply and then frequently pulling near the rated wattage from it.
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For the motherboard, you need a Socket FM2+ motherboard to fit the CPU. But any Socket FM2+ motherboard from MSI, Gigabyte, or Asus will probably be fine for your needs. AsRock is likely to be fine, too, though they're often lower quality. I'd generally avoid other brands for consumer motherboards.
For a 65 W APU that is left at stock speeds, power delivery isn't going to be a problem. Four memory slots is preferable to two since it gives you an upgrade path, but if you're getting 8 GB up front (as two 4 GB modules, not a single 8 GB module), you'll probably never upgrade it anyway. The most likely things that could cause trouble for you is not having the monitor port you need (whatever matches the monitor you use) or not having enough rear USB ports (some motherboards only have four, and some systems need more than that, depending on what you want to plug in).
[mod edit]
You could have a solid build with discrete video card for that 300 USD.
Intel G3258
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117374
MSI H81 MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130731
G.SKILL 1x4GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231743
Corsair 430W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026
HiS R7 250x
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131559
272 USD(not including 20 USD rebate and shipping), assuming you will keep your HDD, case and OS licence.[mod edit]